Hi Rick, that is a very good point and next time I will test it out with a pan of hot water and a thermometer to be sure. However both gauges (I have the standard cylinder head temp gauge plus an act
Hi Carl and Remi. Thank you for your thoughts (and photos Remi). I have thought for a while that some sort of cowl flap would be advantageous on such a closely cowled and fast aircraft. My cooling is
Thanks for the update Brian. Just out of interest does the mod call for any special clamps for the silicone hose or are the standard factory jubilee clips suitable? Ive no experience with silicone ho
My very simplistic schoolboy way of looking at it is like this: VNE - the criteria is the SPEED at which the air molecules pass over the surfaces but not particularly the amount of them. Hence its th
pressure is Density times Velocity Squared or IAS (actually you have calibrated then equivalent) is what the airplane feels. Those RV guys got all hung up on this and confused everyone. Hi Bud, scena
Pete, This is a 60 deg aluminium elbow as listed on ASH; http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-hose-shop/alloy-stainless-steel-pipes/60-alloy-elbows.html And this one is a 60 deg silicone elbow a
Cont..... Actually re. the ASH silicone hose above I dont think is made of the right stuff to be fuel resistant. This one from Merlin probably is (same material as the coupling hose that Brian is put
Thanks Pete, Im fine with it - Ive already got one of Tims aluminium elbows which I bought from him a few years ago and never got around to fitting! Ive ordered a pair of the silicone hose couplers e
Hi Brian, many thanks for your time and effort on our behalf. Time to get the toolbox out! Cheers, Jon um elbow with a bend angle of between 45 degrees and 60 degrees to suit indi vidual aircraft as
Will, comparing notes rather than any suggestions, mine has an identical movement in the wingtip; a noticeable fore and aft movement of free play. Its in both but a bit more on the starboard side. I
Hi Tim, thanks for your thought. I agree and might have over exaggerated the amount of movement in my description - its only small and I can only think its a touch of natural play in the pins; mainly
Hi Keith and Tim, Thank you very much for posting this. It sounds like excellent advice and I am going to do this straight away. Nevs tips (bless him) with be around in the Europa community for a lon
Hi, I used to use the Airworld blue buds too which worked fine but not available now. Instead I use a droplet of food colouring in a small sample of fuel in a glass jar. If there is no ethanol the dr
A mate of mine, also with a Classic monowheel has had a problem come to light. The Tailwheel arm, where it passes through the fins rear close out has become disbonded from the hole and a fair bit of
Hi Bud, thanks for your reply. Just to be sure, he says his front mounting bolt and structure are all sound and in good order. Its the rear mount (where the arm passes through the fin close out) that
Hi Frank, that was my thought exactly - keep it simple! Cheers, Jon :D -- G-TERN Classic Mono Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=481765#481765
Thanks for that Dave. I agree, and did the same re-bonding to mine about 5 years ago which touch wood has held out fine with no problems since. I think the Redux/ Flox method is a very good fix - but
Graeme, I dont know if the following is of any relevance to you but I had a history of identical cracking to yourself on my 912ULS. Both rear down pipes, twice each side. The photo attached shows the