I think I have read somewhere that there is a problem with this where it comes through the rear bulkead. There certainly is with mine. With the number of washers shown and a long enough bolt (AN4-32A
The drawbacks of the Cleco's supplied are well known (assymetry, small lip etc.) I have "inherited" some "Kwik-lok"'s. They are symmetric and you use a tool like a pair of pliers to compress a heavy
The further into the project one gets, the more demand there seems to be for small quantities of epoxy and redux. Having a while back advocated one-cup weighing where weights some three times lighter
There is in fact a good reason for a long door tang. As the hinge axis is buried below the surface, the tang end describes an arc which demands a curved recess which does not start vertically. If it
If the emphasis is on really small quantities, you can use some excellent car body repair products, which don't have critical ratios. Indeed the more hardener you use the quicker it sets. There is ev
"just a pleasing shape" says the good book. Well, firstly how do you get a pleasing shape when supplied with only one sectional view (p 10-86a) which shows a root radius equal to the gap. This would
Gemin4.zip has been sent to the FTP. This enables the use of the (imaginary) flap lever to add drag, pitch and stall speed changes, which were not present with just gear operation. gemin
Thanks for all the input guys - seems that we haven't got any absolute drage reduction figures to go on. <Might add 5 knots to the cruise> seems mighty optimistic - takes quite a few horse power to d
<these will move at about 80-90 degrees C>.....ha ha ! maybe the Loctite softens ,but my vice was catching fire and no movement could be induced using grips on the outside of the tubes. I had to inse
<my confidence has not been boosted in the slightest > Don't worry - the more traffic you see about problems the more solutions become available. Its quite clear to the early builders that there are
<Same technique works when you have to get the wing pins out> As it's Redux there rather than Loctite, I am surprised you can melt it at all. I didn't have to remove mine but experimenting on leftove
Mike Costin (in Europa Flyer Issue 7) suggests a better method than clecos for adding the cockpit module ( almost anything is better than clecos). However its not so easy to put things on the inside
I doubt if it was originaly physically shorter as the mould would presumably have ensured that it wasn't. But it certainly sat on the bottom half in a way that gave a shortfall at the tail. I guess t
<nylaflo and BID it to the side of the tunnel> You can still do something like that if you use a plastic binder so that you can pop in the cable from the top, or just split your tube and hold it clos
<right hand cable is only just above the brake> By raising the guide pulley an inch (the diameter could be reduced too) and keeping it close to the wall (not putting washers under the pulleys) I have
I didn't change the pulley, just moved it - and the deflection it makes is nearly zero, as its half way down the run. Actually reduces as you raise it ! gemin
I see, that'll be interesting. Was just about to set up the flaps when the weather clamped 3 weeks ago. <jack up the plane on the outer ends of the swing arm pivot tube> I'm wheeling mine about on th
Aside from the enormity of the possible necessity of ripping out the recently reinforced floor panels, the knock-on effects would seem to in the way of moving the pedals outwards (literally !). As th