Hi, all -- I know some have to do this, but it follows a failure on only one A/C, a demo with 450 cycles, an no joy on a sample of others. I'm wondering about an alternative method for completed tabs
Bob, your original message didn't come thru to me, but I get it in context. I avoided overlapping by substituting 1/2" bungee. Doing a leverage and math problem, and testing the #'s pull per % of str
Removing the inserts to shorten the crosstube was exactly what I was worried about. I suppose also in the worst case, you could take out some of that closeout layup, and redo it a few hairs deeper in
Very cogent analysis, Rob. Maybe it would help that everything would happen in a sequence. Bending of the leg, breaking of bungee, partial collapse of the frame's fat tubing where the cable hits, and
Cool method, but now it just hit me. The manual can be interpreted to mean that 350# is set with reference to only the frame/leg/wheel assembly. At least I couldn't install the bungee except with the
Hi, Erich -- Cooling fin area only - Oil - 10 x 4H x 2D; Coolant - 10-1/4 x 3-3/8D x 3-1/2H. Both with mounting arrangements widening them, and fit in a 13" wide duct. But if your substituting for Eu
Do rabbit on, Bob, except saying that here that could alarm the ladies! I have don't have that mod. I was just about to post re how 1/2" bungee, and hooks instead of knots, may solve your your crowdi
Others have responded well, but I'd add also that installing engine just once was beyond my ability to plan ahead and think of everything. Especially in tri-gear, re tunnel access issue (and now bung
Thanx much, Bob. I see it now; just more lever on the tail while still measuring up front. I wonder also if one could place blue foam pieces on top of white engine mount and solid places of the Rotax
The pot time of all epoxy products is 95% of what you'd prefer for construction of a vehicle carrying your carcass at altitude. :) The big jobs are the challenge, cockpit module and fuselage top. Tho
I didn't do that, but I hope I was OK. In bouncing on the engine to check out the tri-gear bungees, I saw no flexing anywhere that would make this a concern. Pleasingly solid even. Calling on my fake
I don't know much about effects on the pipe, but for the 914 I'm fairly certain you don't want to send as much heat as possible to the turbocharger. Regards, Fred F., A063
Thanx for the add'l details. That's a collage of disparate stuff, no one of which need be inaccurate for an effective sales brochure. I was concerned over an impression that an I/C is what a 914 Euro
Hi, John. Sorry to hear about your misfortune, but thanx for posting it. When prelim info in U.S. is published, it's often not very informative and sometimes hint at pilot error. The kinking of the i
Hi, Ed -- One item is A-920 (10-32 threaded rod), both Aircraft Spruce and Wicks Aircraft . BTW these are intended for engine apps (heat) and the long but still silky smooth ones are how the go-fast
Bob, I can see how that would would improve things. But I would shop for the proper spring. Shortening means bending a new loop, and nick or stress it, and if she breaks, it's Katie bar the door. Jus
Troy, I can't see much fault in your methods, except the 42" spline is necessary only for guaranteed Best in Show at Oshkosh. That can take forever. But to speed up -- If your splines are not padded
Hi, All -- I have the frame removed for modification, tri-gear but could apply to mono. There were about 10 hairline surface cracks, where the brass bearings pivot around the lower member, each side.
Correcting my prior post, I don't think they were more than .001" deep, but they were fissures in the metal. Scratches push metal up out of the valley, and at all about 45-deg to the member, I can't
Miles, if you do make such a template, I'd like to know if you can do it from Europa's actual coordinates. Why didn't they published them for us Mk 1 types? I made up sanding blocks for the LE, in a