Is there a way to squeeze these rivets without buying a rivet squeezer? A bench vice, perhaps? A rivet squeezer runs for about $130 which seems hardly worth it considering the small number of rivets,
Wow! Thanks for that pointer. I checked the manual updates in europaowners.org, and found that it does mention a substitute pop rivet. Great. But I am worried now how many such updates I may have mis
Sam Can you tell me how the rivet setter from McMaster Carr works? The tool is inexpensive ($18), but the description on their website are unclear. I called the company and they didn't couldn't help
When riveting the W17 end caps inside the aileron push tube, the figure in the manual shows three rivets - top, bottom and side. From symmetry arguments, I am assuming there is a fourth rivet on the
To fit the bellcrank on the port side, the manual calls for counterboring the spar to a depth of 16mm (0.6"). This seems rather excessive to me, considering that the bolt head could be comfortably bu
Thanks for that input. I understand your reasoning, but it would be a better solution to countersink only as necessary and use a longer bolt. The spar is only about 1" thick, and I don't like the ide
Correct me if I am wrong, but AN4-XXA is a 1/4-28 cadmium bolt. I am getting these from Aircraft Spruce. Am I mistaken? == Andrew Sarangan http://www.geocities.com/asarangan
I also ordered a FWF kit in the container coming in March. Can you tell me how the shipping logistics work? Last I heard you have to pay duties and tariffs and have to make your own arrangements to t
The W13 aileron bellcrank has a long end and a short end. The manual does not explain which end connects to which push tube. Based on the holes placements in the ribs, I am thinking that the longer e
I just finished assembling the aileron push tubes. It seems no matter how much I expand the rib holes, the tube always contacts the ribs when it reaches its travel limit. This limits the max travel o
I am surprised why there aren't any instructors out there offering formal training for the Europa. I would be willing to pay for 10-20 hours if one is available. If I ever get to finish mine, I will
For those who visit my Europa email archive, the site has moved to the following address: http://www.sarangan.org/europa_forum/ Andrew Sarangan http://www.sarangan.org
I am installing the wing tiedowns (Mod 69). It calls for Araldite 420 and flox for bonding the tiedown assembly. Is there any reason why Aeropoxy flox cannot be used? The reason I ask is, I figure th
May I ask how you closed the Araldite can after opening it? Once the lid is open, it can't be closed (its like a tuna can). Did you pour it into a different container? If so, what material? Aluminum,
I doubt you will be able to soften the Araldite without deforming the top skin. I would not try to save the skin, but focus on saving the bottom mating flange. If you lose that flange, life could get
I am confused by the Mod61A instructions. If I understand it correctly, the probe tube is meant to go through the spar, penetrating the trailing and leading rib flanges. So, what exactly is the purpo
Thanks for that explanation. Here is a technique that I think might work better (assuming I understand it correctly). My wingtips have cutouts for the installation of nav lights at the leading egde.
Folks I designed and built a nav light system using the Luxeon LEDs (brightest LEDs in the industry). The performance was quite stunning; about 300-500% higher than the FAA specs at only 2 Amps curre
Fred Thanks for your comments about the LED nav light installation. Regarding access panels, I did not need them for my installation. The whole assembly comes off easily. You take the light covers of
When attaching the ailerons to the wing, the manual calls for 25-deg up and 22-deg down (for a final travel of 23.5-deg up and 20-deg down). I don't have any problem with the 22-deg down, in fact, mi