I would be careful about who you are getting these answers from. Different FSDO offices are notorious for interpreting rules differently. Ask them to cite the FAR where this requirement is spelled ou
RAS is not a commonly used term, but it means Rectified Airspeed, which is the same as Calibrated Airspeed (CAS). CAS is the Airspeed corrected for installation errors. Andrew Sarangan http://www.sar
You can also try alodine, which is a two step chemical dip process. For aluminum tubes it will work better than zinc chromate because it will coat the inside surfaces too. I used alodine and then gav
I have seen several builders say that most of the aileron balancing lead ended up being drilled out, and that it was a laborious task. I am wondering if it would be better to build the entire arm wit
Paul I am not sure if I understood your reply. Which method did you follow - the procedure outlined in the manual, or the method of potting a foam arm with lead balls?
The manual does not say anything about lateral balancing of the aileron. I am guessing that I should attempt to make the inboard and outboard weights roughly equal. But I was not entirely sure about
Folks I am a bit confused about the procedure for attaching the flaps to the wings. I hope someone can clarify it for me. First, I am not clear on what exact purpose is served by the flap setting tem
I built a CNC foam cutting machine some time back, so I was able to hot wire nicely shaped aileron mass balance horns. I know it is just as easy to make them with a sanding block, but I thought I wou
I trimmed a little too much flange off the tip end of the flap. Now the gap between the aileron and flap is about 15mm instead of the recommended 3-5mm. I am assuming this is not such a big deal, but
I am still struggling with fitting the flap to the wing. Everything looks fine at the root end, andit fits the template accurately. But I have a couple of problems with the tip-end where the flap mee
There was some talk about a updating the mod for the outrigger pivot bearing sometime last year, but the latest version on the club website is still dated 2002. Does anyone know the status of this mo
I know nothing about painting, except for routine touchups I have done around the house. Now I have to decide how to paint Europa's external metal parts such as flap arms. All my metal parts have bee
If I may add, Alodine process is really quite simple and not as messy as it is portrayed. The key is to have pre-mixed phosphoric etch (Metal Prep 79), Alodine 1201 and water in separate plastic buck
Just curious why the full depth available in OR1 and the wheel fork are not utilized by the nylon legs. The nylon rod is inserted only part way into the sockets and the bolt holes are drilled just 5m
I was not aware of this advice to not drill the rods until the final phase. Well, mine is done, so I may have to buy a new set of rods when the time comes.
While fitting the outrigger assembly to the outboard double-W18 plates in the wing, I discovered that the fit was not very snug. It appears that I might not have clamped the plates properly when I bo
The local TV station wanted to do an interview in my Europa workshop. The interview was not about the Europa, but actually about a mid-air crash that occured at a nearby airport. I happened to have t
I also noticed that the nylon legs are preventing my flaps from fully retracting. The upper limit of the flap movement seems to be limited by the nylon legs coming in contact with the FL3 plate, and
I made a wing dolly, but I am not sure if it is a self-rig dolly. It probably can be, with some modifications. http://www.sarangan.org/aviation/europa/wing/cradle.html
Fred Thanks for that message. Here is a pic that shows the problem area. I have checked the dimensions and they all appear to be correct, to within a millimeter or two in the worst case. Any insights