From DuaneFamly@aol.com Thu Apr 1 13:55:16 1999 Subject: Sun-N-Fun Attendees Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 13:55:16 From: DuaneFamly@aol.com I was just wondering how many Europa builders are going to bring their masterpieces to Sun-N-Fun this year. I have flown with KP in N111EU, but that is a "show aircraft" that was built by professionals. I think it would be interesting to see what the real world comes up with when done by someone more like myself. Also as I have yet to acquire a place to build my own (money burning a hole in my pocket) it would be nice to see what the E-Mails about all these mods, hinges, bellcranks, cable slapping, etc. are really talking about. Also maybe looking forward to meeting some of the authors of all the discussions going on lately. I'll be the one in the red Coca-Cola hat written in Russian. Mike Duane, RHV, San Jose, Calif. From dg@xpsystems.com Thu Apr 1 14:02:02 1999 Subject: RE: Sun-N-Fun Attendees Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 14:02:02 From: David Glauser Kim's is *not* a "show aircraft", and was not "built by professionals". Kim is a firefighter, and built the plane in his spare time with the help of some friends, none of whom are professional builders. His professional relationship with Europa came after he completed the plane. The plane is very well built, although as Kim would be the first to tell you it is not show quality and was never intended to be. He built it for lightness. Show winners tend to be heavy, as they have all kinds of extra filler. Kim even used only a single finish coat of paint on the bottom of the wings, to save weight. By all means, poke and prod your way around all the Europas at Lakeland (with the owner's permissions, of course). David -----Original Message----- Subject: Sun-N-Fun Attendees I was just wondering how many Europa builders are going to bring their masterpieces to Sun-N-Fun this year. I have flown with KP in N111EU, but that is a "show aircraft" that was built by professionals. I think it would be interesting to see what the real world comes up with when done by someone more like myself. Also as I have yet to acquire a place to build my own (money burning a hole in my pocket) it would be nice to see what the E-Mails about all these mods, hinges, bellcranks, cable slapping, etc. are really talking about. Also maybe looking forward to meeting some of the authors of all the discussions going on lately. I'll be the one in the red Coca-Cola hat written in Russian. Mike Duane, RHV, San Jose, Calif. RE: Sun-N-Fun Attendees Kim's is *not* a show aircraft, and was not built by professionals. Kim is a firefighter, and built the plane in his spare time with the help of some friends, none of whom are professional builders. His professional relationship with Europa came after he completed the plane. The plane is very well built, although as Kim would be the first to tell you it is not show quality and was never intended to be. He built it for lightness. Show winners tend to be heavy, as they have all kinds of extra filler. Kim even used only a single finish coat of paint on the bottom of the wings, to save weight. By all means, poke and prod your way around all the Europas at Lakeland (with the owner's permissions, of course). David -----Original Message----- From: DuaneFamly@aol.com [mailto:DuaneFamly@aol.com] Subject: Sun-N-Fun Attendees I was just wondering how many Europa builders are going to bring their masterpieces to Sun-N-Fun this year. I have flown with KP in N111EU, but that is a show aircraft that was built by professionals. I think it would be interesting to see what the real world comes up with when done by someone more like myself. Also as I have yet to acquire a place to build my own (money burning a hole in my pocket) it would be nice to see what the E-Mails about all these mods, hinges, bellcranks, cable slapping, etc. are really talking about. Also maybe looking forward to meeting some of the authors of all the discussions going on lately. I'll be the one in the red Coca-Cola hat written in Russian. Mike Duane, RHV, San Jose, Calif. From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Thu Apr 1 21:38:46 1999 Subject: Re: U/C Mod Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 21:38:46 From: Graham Singleton At 11:44 31/03/99 +0930, Baker, Dino (FMC) wrote: >Message for Andy Draper and all, > >Recently you mentioned the U/C mod that involved adding a strengthening >brace. I have still not received the official factory notification. What is >the status? > >Also what was the solution to the Tailplane problem? AFAIK the U/C brace is optional, but I would say strongly recommended and not hard to do. The TP problem has a couple of solutions, one is Loctite as described by Jens Gralfs, the other to replace the pins with oversize ones. This involves taking everything out and precision reaming the holes.# I intend to replace all four pins with a set of home made expanding pins, without reaming. The pins will expand to fill the oval holes, (I hope, at least it worked on a test piece.) Still won't be easy because of the awkward access. Graham From gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 2 08:22:08 1999 Subject: BOUNCE europa@post.avnet.co.uk: Non-member submission from [Tony Spicer Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 08:22:08 From: Gerry Holland ] Ladies & Gentlemen Can anybody help this Gentleman. Any information on Jabiru would be interesting to this list also. Regards Gerry ------- Forwarded message follows ------- Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 18:13:56 -0500 From: Tony Spicer Subject: engine info request Hi all, This is a request for information on the Jabiru 2200 and 3300 engines. I am currently building a John Monnett designed Sonex, and would like to power it with a Jabiru. I'm having a difficult time locating Jabiru owners that would be willing to share their thoughts on the engine. I've been told that there are Jabiru powered Europas, so hopefully someone on this list can provide some info. I'm not a list member, so please direct any responses to me. Any information I am able to get will be passed on to other Sonex builders. thanks, Tony Spicer, Sonex #32 Wilmington, NC Gerry Holland Intranet Solutions Inc. Website: http://www.intranetsol.com gerry.holland@intranetsol.com gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Mobile +44 (0) 7808 402404 Office +44 (0) 1761 435706 Fax +44 (0) 1761 432472 From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Fri Apr 2 21:41:55 1999 Subject: Jokes 1. Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 21:41:55 From: Tony Renshaw Hello, Fly safe. Build well. Reg Tony Renshaw Aviation 101 Takeoff's are optional. Landings are mandatory. If God meant man to fly, He'd have given him more money. If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger, if you pull the stick back they get smaller. (Unless you keep pulling the stick back -then they get bigger again) Flying is not dangerous; crashing is dangerous. It's better to be down here wishing you were up there, than up there wishing you were down here. The propeller is just a big fan in the front of the plane to keep the pilot cool. Want proof? Make it stop; then watch the pilot break out into a sweat. Speed is life, altitude is life insurance. No one has ever collided with the sky. It's best to keep the pointed end going forward as much as possible. The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire. Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man.... Landing is the first! Every one already knows the definition of a 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. But very few know the definition of a 'great landing.' It's one after which you can use the airplane another time. The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival. Always remember you fly an airplane with your head, not your hands. Never let an airplane take you somewhere your brain didn't get to five minutes earlier. You know you've landed with the wheels up when it takes full power to taxi. Those who hoot with the owls by night, should not fly with the eagles by day. A helicopter is a collection of rotating parts going round and round and reciprocating parts going up and down - all of them trying to become random in motion. Helicopters can't really fly - they're just so ugly that the earth immediately repels them. Young man, was that a landing or were we shot down? Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make all of them yourself. Trust your captain .... but keep your seat belt securely fastened. Any pilot who relies on a terminal forecast can be sold the Brooklyn Bridge. If he relies on winds-aloft reports he can be sold Niagara Falls. Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment. Aviation is not so much a profession as it is a disease. There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing: Unfortunately, no one knows what they are. The only thing worse than a captain who never flew as copilot is a copilot who once was a captain. Be nice to your first officer, he may be your captain at your next airline. Any attempt to stretch fuel is guaranteed to increase headwind. A thunderstorm is never as bad on the inside as it appears on the outside. It's worse. Son, I was flying airplanes for a living when you were still in liquid form. It's easy to make a small fortune in aviation. You start with a large fortune. A male pilot is a confused soul who talks about women when he's flying, and about flying when he's with a woman. A fool and his money are soon flying more airplane than he can handle. Remember, you're always a student in an airplane. Keep looking around; there's always something you've missed. Try to keep the number of your landings equal to the number of your takeoffs. You cannot propel yourself forward by patting yourself on the back. There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are no old, bold, pilots! Things which do you no good in aviation: Altitude above you. Runway behind you. Fuel in the truck. Half a second ago. Approach plates in the car. The airspeed you don't have. Flying is the perfect vocation for a man who wants to feel like a boy, but not for one who still is. Asking what a pilot thinks about the FAA is like asking a fireplug what it thinks about dogs. Being an airline pilot would be great if you didn't have to go on all those trips. Gravity never loses! The best you can hope for is a draw! ----------------- End Forwarded Message ----------------- Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Fri Apr 2 21:45:28 1999 Subject: Addit Plies in Aileron Closeouts Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 21:45:28 From: Tony Renshaw Gidday, Can someone please help me to find the reference to the no. of additional plies to place in both the aileron closeouts and the trailing edge of the wing closeouts (Mark I)? I know I have read it recently as the suggestion of addit. plies was made to minimise flex cracking of finished paintwork I believe. Thanks in anticipation Reg Tony Renshaw Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From aburrill@bottleneck.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 2 15:25:00 1999 Subject: Re: Addit Plies in Aileron Closeouts Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 15:25:00 From: Alan As I understood it the recomendation was to add an extra hinge reinforcement ply on the aileron and wing close-outs if your just building or lay two on each if you've alredy done it. The ref is Tech Talk - Stop Press (No 19) from Europa Alan -----Original Message----- From: Tony Renshaw Date: 02 April 1999 12:47 Subject: Addit Plies in Aileron Closeouts >Gidday, >Can someone please help me to find the reference to the no. of additional >plies to place in both the aileron closeouts and the trailing edge of the >wing closeouts (Mark I)? I know I have read it recently as the suggestion >of addit. plies was made to minimise flex cracking of finished paintwork I >believe. Thanks in anticipation >Reg >Tony Renshaw >Reg >Tony Renshaw >Builder No.236 From kjell.skogeland@mbox200.swipnet.se Fri Apr 2 20:30:49 1999 Subject: Rotax 914 Hot Starts Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 20:30:49 From: Kjell Skogeland Wolknow'n "secret" problem. It's too hot on the engine top. You have to move tke transistor ignition unit. We had the same problem last summer when Adam kingdon was visiting Siljansns in Sweden. We had to cool down the ignition unit with an icebag, When a Rotax 914 have started, don't stop it unnecessairly. Try to move or isolate the ignition unit, protect it for the hot air. Kjell S From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Sat Apr 3 09:22:51 1999 Subject: Chat a Chit Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 09:22:51 From: Tony Renshaw Aviation 101 Takeoff's are optional. Landings are mandatory. If God meant man to fly, He'd have given him more money. If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger, if you pull the stick back they get smaller. (Unless you keep pulling the stick back -then they get bigger again) Flying is not dangerous; crashing is dangerous. It's better to be down here wishing you were up there, than up there wishing you were down here. The propeller is just a big fan in the front of the plane to keep the pilot cool. Want proof? Make it stop; then watch the pilot break out into a sweat. Speed is life, altitude is life insurance. No one has ever collided with the sky. It's best to keep the pointed end going forward as much as possible. The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire. Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man.... Landing is the first! Every one already knows the definition of a 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. But very few know the definition of a 'great landing.' It's one after which you can use the airplane another time. The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival. Always remember you fly an airplane with your head, not your hands. Never let an airplane take you somewhere your brain didn't get to five minutes earlier. You know you've landed with the wheels up when it takes full power to taxi. Those who hoot with the owls by night, should not fly with the eagles by day. A helicopter is a collection of rotating parts going round and round and reciprocating parts going up and down - all of them trying to become random in motion. Helicopters can't really fly - they're just so ugly that the earth immediately repels them. Young man, was that a landing or were we shot down? Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make all of them yourself. Trust your captain .... but keep your seat belt securely fastened. Any pilot who relies on a terminal forecast can be sold the Brooklyn Bridge. If he relies on winds-aloft reports he can be sold Niagara Falls. Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment. Aviation is not so much a profession as it is a disease. There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing: Unfortunately, no one knows what they are. The only thing worse than a captain who never flew as copilot is a copilot who once was a captain. Be nice to your first officer, he may be your captain at your next airline. Any attempt to stretch fuel is guaranteed to increase headwind. A thunderstorm is never as bad on the inside as it appears on the outside. It's worse. Son, I was flying airplanes for a living when you were still in liquid form. It's easy to make a small fortune in aviation. You start with a large fortune. A male pilot is a confused soul who talks about women when he's flying, and about flying when he's with a woman. A fool and his money are soon flying more airplane than he can handle. Remember, you're always a student in an airplane. Keep looking around; there's always something you've missed. Try to keep the number of your landings equal to the number of your takeoffs. You cannot propel yourself forward by patting yourself on the back. There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are no old, bold, pilots! Things which do you no good in aviation: Altitude above you. Runway behind you. Fuel in the truck. Half a second ago. Approach plates in the car. The airspeed you don't have. Flying is the perfect vocation for a man who wants to feel like a boy, but not for one who still is. Asking what a pilot thinks about the FAA is like asking a fireplug what it thinks about dogs. Being an airline pilot would be great if you didn't have to go on all those trips. Gravity never loses! The best you can hope for is a draw! ----------------- End Forwarded Message ----------------- Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From alan.stewart@cableinet.co.uk Sat Apr 3 11:23:13 1999 Subject: Terra Tranceiver results Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 11:23:13 From: Alan D Stewart Terra Tranceiver : new composite antenna with metal ground plane. Yesterday (dry, vis 5km, light southerly), I tried the new composite aerial arrangement for the third time. (From 1700ft agl) Here are the complete results for the session: Station Contacted Readability Distance of station (Nm) Stapleford 4/5 10 (at one point, reported 'not very good') Clacton N/N? 23 (only aircraft xmit heard at any time) Andrewsfield 4/5 4 Elstree N/4 26 (reported 'unreadable') Earls Colne 5/5 7 (responded on 2nd attempt) North Weald 5/5 17 Biggin Hill 4/5 37 Southend 5/5 17 NB. Readability scored as Xmit/Receive. N means no communication. These results seem fairly good to me, and are about the same as last week. The Stapleford comment disturbed me, as did the lack of response from Clacton. On the other hand the result from Biggin is encouraging. Hopefully, poorer weather will not attenuate the signal. I would hope to talk to easily to 9 out of 10 stations within 20 Nm. Is that a good bating average, or not ? -- On a completely separate issue, I now have a mouse living in the foam core of my tail-fin (I can hear it scratching periodically and have seen the tell-tale signs of shreaded foam and mouse droppings). Any suggestions in addition to the obvious (poison for them to eat, mouse-trap and ultrasonic emitter), gratefully received ? PS. They haven't gone for the uphostery yet, they seem to love the foam. (apparently green wiring is also vulnerable) alan -- Alan. D. Stewart 14 Goddard Way 'phone : +44 1245 264186 Chelmer Village work : +44 1473 607571 Chelmsford, Essex CM2 6UR email : alan.stewart@cableinet.co.uk office email : alan.d.stewart@bt.com From ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk Sat Apr 3 14:12:10 1999 Subject: RE: Terra Tranceiver results Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 14:12:10 From: Plantragg Developments Hi! Alan. Suggest a strong smelling cheese on a mouse trap, since you need to know you've caught them!!! Also you need to remove them otherwise you may get quite a smell, atleast until you power up for flight. Also why should they get free rides !!!! Regards Bob Harrison 337 G-PTAG. -----Original Message----- From: Alan D Stewart [SMTP:alan.stewart@cableinet.co.uk] Sent: 03 April 1999 11:23 Subject: Terra Tranceiver results Terra Tranceiver : new composite antenna with metal ground plane. Yesterday (dry, vis 5km, light southerly), I tried the new composite aerial arrangement for the third time. (From 1700ft agl) Here are the complete results for the session: Station Contacted Readability Distance of station (Nm) Stapleford 4/5 10 (at one point, reported 'not very good') Clacton N/N? 23 (only aircraft xmit heard at any time) Andrewsfield 4/5 4 Elstree N/4 26 (reported 'unreadable') Earls Colne 5/5 7 (responded on 2nd attempt) North Weald 5/5 17 Biggin Hill 4/5 37 Southend 5/5 17 NB. Readability scored as Xmit/Receive. N means no communication. These results seem fairly good to me, and are about the same as last week. The Stapleford comment disturbed me, as did the lack of response from Clacton. On the other hand the result from Biggin is encouraging. Hopefully, poorer weather will not attenuate the signal. I would hope to talk to easily to 9 out of 10 stations within 20 Nm. Is that a good bating average, or not ? -- On a completely separate issue, I now have a mouse living in the foam core of my tail-fin (I can hear it scratching periodically and have seen the tell-tale signs of shreaded foam and mouse droppings). Any suggestions in addition to the obvious (poison for them to eat, mouse-trap and ultrasonic emitter), gratefully received ? PS. They haven't gone for the uphostery yet, they seem to love the foam. (apparently green wiring is also vulnerable) alan -- Alan. D. Stewart ----- 14 Goddard Way 'phone : +44 1245 264186 Chelmer Village work : +44 1473 607571 Chelmsford, Essex CM2 6UR email : alan.stewart@cableinet.co.uk ----- office email : alan.d.stewart@bt.com From ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk Sat Apr 3 14:12:51 1999 Subject: RE: BOUNCE europa@post.avnet.co.uk: Non-member submission from [Tony Spicer Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 14:12:51 From: Plantragg Developments Hi! Gerry Holland. Most of what you need to know can be found on the Jabiru web site :- http://www.jabiru.co.uk Kevin Pearce of ST Aviation Ltd. is the UK agency His phone no is 01366 385 558 or fax. No. 385559. You may have noticed here before that I am installing a 3300 into Mk1 Europa Unfortuneately I am still struggling to get ready for painting and completion of the panel but I am expecting to "take" it to Cranfield although probably in the trike trailer I've been posting on the net. For your info I am mailing Tony Spicer the same info . today. BFN Bob Harrison. 337 G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Holland [SMTP:gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk] Sent: 02 April 1999 08:22 Subject: BOUNCE europa@post.avnet.co.uk: Non-member submission ---From [Tony Spicer ] Ladies & Gentlemen Can anybody help this Gentleman. Any information on Jabiru would be interesting to this list also. Regards Gerry ------- Forwarded message follows ------- Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 18:13:56 -0500 From: Tony Spicer Subject: engine info request Hi all, This is a request for information on the Jabiru 2200 and 3300 engines. I am currently building a John Monnett designed Sonex, and would like to power it with a Jabiru. I'm having a difficult time locating Jabiru owners that would be willing to share their thoughts on the engine. I've been told that there are Jabiru powered Europas, so hopefully someone on this list can provide some info. I'm not a list member, so please direct any responses to me. Any information I am able to get will be passed on to other Sonex builders. thanks, Tony Spicer, Sonex #32 Wilmington, NC Gerry Holland Intranet Solutions Inc. Website: http://www.intranetsol.com gerry.holland@intranetsol.com gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Mobile +44 (0) 7808 402404 Office +44 (0) 1761 435706 Fax +44 (0) 1761 432472 From ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk Sat Apr 3 14:12:35 1999 Subject: RE: Chat a Chit Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 14:12:35 From: Plantragg Developments Hi! Tony . Great to see someone with some humour, really need it at present since we have just learnt that my wife JAN has the 'BIG C' in her breast, she hopefully has caught it early since she has an operation to 'remove it ' either out or off' on Tuesday next. Just think all that handy work wasted!! BFN Bob Harrison 337 G-PTAG. -----Original Message----- From: Tony Renshaw [SMTP:renshaw@ozemail.com.au] Sent: 03 April 1999 00:23 Subject: Chat a Chit Aviation 101 Takeoff's are optional. Landings are mandatory. If God meant man to fly, He'd have given him more money. If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger, if you pull the stick back they get smaller. (Unless you keep pulling the stick back -then they get bigger again) Flying is not dangerous; crashing is dangerous. It's better to be down here wishing you were up there, than up there wishing you were down here. The propeller is just a big fan in the front of the plane to keep the pilot cool. Want proof? Make it stop; then watch the pilot break out into a sweat. Speed is life, altitude is life insurance. No one has ever collided with the sky. It's best to keep the pointed end going forward as much as possible. The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire. Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man.... Landing is the first! Every one already knows the definition of a 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. But very few know the definition of a 'great landing.' It's one after which you can use the airplane another time. The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival. Always remember you fly an airplane with your head, not your hands. Never let an airplane take you somewhere your brain didn't get to five minutes earlier. You know you've landed with the wheels up when it takes full power to taxi. Those who hoot with the owls by night, should not fly with the eagles by day. A helicopter is a collection of rotating parts going round and round and reciprocating parts going up and down - all of them trying to become random in motion. Helicopters can't really fly - they're just so ugly that the earth immediately repels them. Young man, was that a landing or were we shot down? Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make all of them yourself. Trust your captain .... but keep your seat belt securely fastened. Any pilot who relies on a terminal forecast can be sold the Brooklyn Bridge. If he relies on winds-aloft reports he can be sold Niagara Falls. Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment. Aviation is not so much a profession as it is a disease. There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing: Unfortunately, no one knows what they are. The only thing worse than a captain who never flew as copilot is a copilot who once was a captain. Be nice to your first officer, he may be your captain at your next airline. Any attempt to stretch fuel is guaranteed to increase headwind. A thunderstorm is never as bad on the inside as it appears on the outside. It's worse. Son, I was flying airplanes for a living when you were still in liquid form. It's easy to make a small fortune in aviation. You start with a large fortune. A male pilot is a confused soul who talks about women when he's flying, and about flying when he's with a woman. A fool and his money are soon flying more airplane than he can handle. Remember, you're always a student in an airplane. Keep looking around; there's always something you've missed. Try to keep the number of your landings equal to the number of your takeoffs. You cannot propel yourself forward by patting yourself on the back. There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are no old, bold, pilots! Things which do you no good in aviation: Altitude above you. Runway behind you. Fuel in the truck. Half a second ago. Approach plates in the car. The airspeed you don't have. Flying is the perfect vocation for a man who wants to feel like a boy, but not for one who still is. Asking what a pilot thinks about the FAA is like asking a fireplug what it thinks about dogs. Being an airline pilot would be great if you didn't have to go on all those trips. Gravity never loses! The best you can hope for is a draw! ----------------- End Forwarded Message ----------------- Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Sat Apr 3 21:18:54 1999 Subject: Rad Hose Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 21:18:54 From: Gerry Holland This message received from: Trevannan@aol.com Please reply direct to : Trevannan@aol.com ------- Forwarded message follows ------- Hi G-BWIJ all but finished, last item needed is radiator hose (25 mm ID). Any one out there know a UK source. Roger Gerry Holland Intranet Solutions Inc. Website: http://www.intranetsol.com gerry.holland@intranetsol.com gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Mobile +44 (0) 7808 402404 Office +44 (0) 1761 435706 Fax +44 (0) 1761 432472 From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Sun Apr 4 01:27:18 1999 Subject: smiles Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 01:27:18 From: Graham Singleton This one made me chuckle. Sent by one of the many nice people I have been priveleged to know in the flying tribe,George Rutan. (Burt's Dad.) > A tourist wanders into a back-alley antique shop in San Francisco's Chinatown. > Picking through the objects on display he discovers a detailed bronze > sculpture of a rat. The sculpture is so interesting and unique that he picks > it up and asks the shop owner the price. "Twelve dollars for the rat, sir," > says the shop owner, "and an > extra thousand for the story behind it." "At that price, you can keep the > story, old man," he replies, "but I'll take the bronze rat." > > The transaction complete, the tourist leaves the store with the bronze rat > under his arm. As he crosses the street in front of the store, two live rats > emerge from a sewer drain and fall into step behind him. Nervously looking over his shoulder, he begins to walk faster, but every time he passes another sewer, more rats come out and follow him. By the time he's walked two blocks, at least a hundred rats are at his heels, and people begin to point and shout. He walks even faster, and soon breaks into a trot as multitudes of rats swarm from sewers, basements, vacant lots, and abandoned cars... following him. Rats by the thousands are at his heels, and as he sees the waterfront at the bottom of the hill he panics and starts to run full tilt. No matter how fast he runs, the rats keep up, squealing hideously now not just thousands but millions, so that by the time he comes racing to the water's edge a trail of rats twelve blocks long is behind him. Making a mighty leap, he jumps up onto a lamp post, grasping it with one arm, while he hurls the bronze rat into San Francisco Bay as far as he can throw it. Pulling his legs up and clinging to the post, he watches in amazement as the seething tide of rats surges over the breakwater into the sea, where they drown. Shaken and mumbling, he makes his way back to the antique shop. "Ah sir, you've come back for the story," says the owner. "No," says the tourist, "I was just hoping you had a bronze sculpture of a lawyer " Graham From carl@photos.prestel.co.uk Sun Apr 4 11:46:27 1999 Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Senders Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 11:46:27 From: carl@photos.prestel.co.uk Following the recent discussions on fuel contamination/ water/ blocked filters etc, we have decided to (a) fit a gascolator in the fuel line (instesad of the Europa filter/ filters which in our opinion is not large enough and likely to clog up) and (b) fit a FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE. Fortunately there seems to be an offtake from our Grand Rapids EIS for a pressure sensor so we are hoping this will be a relatively simple mod. The EIS manual suggests using a Stewart Warner fuel pressure sender and gives the appropriate wiring instructions. Once installed we will be able to monitor the fuel pressure and get an alarm if there is a problem, hopefully long before things get critical. Anyone know where we might find one of these (Spruce and Speciality perhaps ?) If anyone has already done this mod, any suggestions as to how to proceed would be appreciated. Also, there is provision for monitoring water temperature but were not sure where to fit the sensor - there dosent seem to be a takeoff already fitted. Apparently you use the standar Rotax temp sender but there are about a dozen places it could go, so where to put it ? Any suggestions. Alternately, how easy is the Rotax system and what sort of cost ? From JohnJMoran@aol.com Sun Apr 4 11:11:59 1999 Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Sender for EIS Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 11:11:59 From: JohnJMoran@aol.com The fuel pressure sensor provided by GRT for the EIS is VDO part no. 360 043, 30psi max; it requires a 200 ohm resistor in series to yield a 10psi range with 0.1psi resolution. It connects via an extra Tee fitting in the line to the carb. I used an aluminum bracket bolted to the firewall plus a stainless hose clamp to secure the sensor to it (to minimize vibration problems, don't mount the sensor on the engine). I posed the question about the water temperature sensor to the group a couple weeks ago. The consensus was that the sensor should be in the line from the radiator to the water pump but that this measurement was more or less redundant given the CHT readings. In this location, the sensor measures the efficiency of the cooling system; it may allow determining whether coolant is present based on the difference between the CHT and the coolant temp. I made a fitting to hold the sensor from a 3 inch section of 1 inch dia stainless tube by drilling a hole to allow the sensor through, then welding a 10mm stainless nut over this hole. The radiator return hose will be cut to allow insertion of this fitting. Use 10mm stainless bolts to replace the sensors removed from the engine. My flight adviser would prefer a coolant pressure sensor instead of the coolant temperature sensor to give an early warning of coolant loss. In addition, he suggested a manifold pressure reading even though I will use a fixed pitch prop - he says it facilitates evaluating engine power setting, especially while determining correct prop pitch. I bought the manifold pressure sensor for the EIS from GRT - it must be mounted on the cabin side of the firewall since it's temperature sensitive. Hope this helps. Regards, John A044 From carl@photos.prestel.co.uk Sun Apr 4 16:41:45 1999 Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Pressure Senders Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 16:41:45 From: carl@photos.prestel.co.uk -----Original Message----- From: nigelcharles Date: 04 April 1999 15:52 Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Senders >If you haven't already done so, you may like to read my e-mail on the >parallel fuel system I have developed. It overcomes a blocked filter by >automatically routing fuel by another pipe (no pilot input required and it >tells you it has done it). In case you missed it I have included the text >of the article as an attachment file to this e-mail. Thanks for the information on pressure senders etc. Unfortunately I didnt receive the attachment which you mentioned and dont seem to have it archived anywhere. >The 912 comes with two water temperature senders fitted to the head (port >front and stbd rear). I shouldn't think it makes much difference which one >you use as the water circulation should even out the potential differences. Unfortunately my 912 only came with one cylinder head sensor as it was second hand (out of G-YURO) someone lost the other one and also the oil temp sender was missing (or never there) so I will have to purchase another one - not such a problem as it appears as the EIS already comes with two cylinder heas sensors (you just bolt them in place of where the Rotax temp senders are fitted) and then use the one of the Rotax senders for coolant temperature. In your note you refer to the two water temperature senders fitted to the head as though they are already mounted (port front and stbd rear) in the correct place to measure water temp. Surely water temp and cylinder head temp are two different parameters, even though in reality they will (hopefully) be nearly the same. Presumably what you meant was that one of the two senders in the cylinder heads could be used for measuring water temp when mounted in the appropriate place. This brings me back to the original question ie- should the water/colant temperature be measured before or after it has been cooled by the radiators and if so where is the best place to mount the sensor - Rotax do not appear to provide a tapping for this purpose unless someone knows better. Thanks for your your sugestions. Carl Pattinson (G-LABS alias Kit 49) -----Original Message----- href"mailto:NigelCharles@compuserve.com">NigelCharles@compuserve.com href"mailto:carl@photos.prestel.co.uk">carl@photos.prestel.co.uk 04 April 1999 15:52 Senders the by and it the text of the article as an attachment file to this e-mail. and dont seem to have it archived anywhere. two water temperature senders fitted to the head (port rear). I shouldn't think it makes much difference which one the water circulation should even out the potential differences. temperature. temp when mounted in the appropriate place. better. side of the pond if possible. sugestions. alias Kit 49) From Gramin@aol.com Sun Apr 4 18:44:18 1999 Subject: Europa for sale Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 18:44:18 From: Gramin@aol.com Relayed message - and Transponder. =A328000 Currently based at Carlisle Airport, UK Phone (44) 01721 720570 (Bill Goodburn) Fax 01721 724135 or (44) 01683 220314 (Hamish McCleod) From gstout@us.ibm.com Mon Apr 5 08:40:45 1999 Subject: First Flight Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 08:40:45 From: gstout@us.ibm.com After 2 years and 3 months of effort, Europa trigear A4220S took to the sky on it's first flight this past weekend. At the controls was test pilot Lee Omernick. It was a beautiful sight to watch the plane depart the runway (Lakeland Airport....home of Sun N'Fun), and circle the pattern. Even more beautiful was that no pieces of the airplane were falling off, the propeller continued to rotate and the wheels stayed pointed toward the ground. After 1 1/2 times around the pattern, Lee lined up for a landing. My heart was pounding as Lee greased it on the runway. His evaluation?........the tachometer was reading 7,000 RPM, and he could only get about 80 MPH. We quickly determined that the blades of the Warp drive prop were not sufficiently tightened, and the initial pitch of 22 degrees, had flattened out to 9 degrees. No wonder the engine was overreving....and going nowhere. Other than that, Lee declared that the plane's controls, balances, responsiveness, etc, were all first rate. We re-pitched the prop and Lee took the plane out for another test. This time all was well. It does need a slight rudder trim tab installed.....anybody out there have a good suggestion for mounting a clean rudder tab? (height, width, etc). Lots of people to recognize for all their help and assistance along the way. I couldn't have done it without them. Russel Lepre, Jimmy Thursby, Marvin Alvarez, Bob Berube, Bob Setzer, Glen Saunders, and Lee Omernick are just a few of the wonderful people who kept me going. I plan to have my plane on display at the Europa booth during Sun N'Fun. I'd encourage all Europa builders/flyers to stop by and say hello. Hopefully I can sneak away from work this week and actually solo the plane myself. I'm so looking forward to "my" first flight. Regards, Garry Stout (# A 060) (813) 878-3929, TieLine 427-3929 FAX (813) 878-7976, Internet ID Gstout@us.ibm.com From johnwigney@worldnet.att.net Mon Apr 5 11:18:16 1999 Subject: Re: First Flight Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 11:18:16 From: John Wigney Gary, Re your comment on trim tab for the rudder. You might try the following :- Apply a Flettner strip to the trailing edge of the rudder similar to the application on the anti-servo tabs. However, apply to ONE side of the rudder only. This could be applied initially in different lengths with duct tape to determine effectiveness before final attachment. I do not have hands on experience of this type of tab and am uncertain on how powerful it is but I believe it is worth a try as I think it is a bit more elegant than a conventional fixed tab. Cheers, John From DaveSimpson@londonweb.net Tue Apr 6 00:22:53 1999 Subject: Re: U/C Mod Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 00:22:53 From: Dave Simpson Graham, Surely the problem is a bearing strength one, not a poor fit of the pin in the hole from manufacture. If it's bearing strength, then an expanding pin will only provide a temporary solution. Dave Simpson -----Original Message----- From: Graham Singleton Date: 01 April 1999 23:35 Subject: Re: U/C Mod >At 11:44 31/03/99 +0930, Baker, Dino (FMC) wrote: >>Message for Andy Draper and all, >> >>Recently you mentioned the U/C mod that involved adding a strengthening >>brace. I have still not received the official factory notification. What is >>the status? >> >>Also what was the solution to the Tailplane problem? > >AFAIK the U/C brace is optional, but I would say strongly recommended and >not hard to do. > >The TP problem has a couple of solutions, one is Loctite as described by >Jens Gralfs, the other to replace the pins with oversize ones. This >involves taking everything out and precision reaming the holes.# > >I intend to replace all four pins with a set of home made expanding pins, >without reaming. The pins will expand to fill the oval holes, (I hope, at >least it worked on a test piece.) Still won't be easy because of the >awkward access. > >Graham From DaveSimpson@londonweb.net Tue Apr 6 00:15:30 1999 Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Pressure Senders Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 00:15:30 From: Dave Simpson Carl, I think Skydrive stock the pressure switches. Give 'em a call 01926 612188 Dave Simpson -----Original Message----- From: carl@photos.prestel.co.uk Date: 04 April 1999 12:40 Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Senders >Following the recent discussions on fuel contamination/ water/ blocked >filters etc, we have decided to (a) fit a gascolator in the fuel line >(instesad of the Europa filter/ filters which in our opinion is not large >enough and likely to clog up) and (b) fit a FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE. > >Fortunately there seems to be an offtake from our Grand Rapids EIS for a >pressure sensor so we are hoping this will be a relatively simple mod. The >EIS manual suggests using a Stewart Warner fuel pressure sender and gives >the appropriate wiring instructions. Once installed we will be able to >monitor the fuel pressure and get an alarm if there is a problem, hopefully >long before things get critical. > >Anyone know where we might find one of these (Spruce and Speciality perhaps >?) If anyone has already done this mod, any suggestions as to how to proceed >would be appreciated. > >Also, there is provision for monitoring water temperature but were not sure >where to fit the sensor - there dosent seem to be a takeoff already fitted. >Apparently you use the standar Rotax temp sender but there are about a dozen >places it could go, so where to put it ? Any suggestions. > >Alternately, how easy is the Rotax system and what sort of cost ? > From CLAM@kidd.Co.Za Tue Apr 6 09:51:36 1999 Subject: Addit Plies in Aileron Closeouts -Reply Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:51:36 From: MARK CLARK This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_E6B0D50D.82E3895E I was considering removing the anchor nuts from the hinge and fitting them to a 1.6 mm aluminium plate mounted above the hinge. This plate is bent to run up the inclined section of the closeout by 20 mm. After waxing the hinge this is then "Reduxed" to the closeout , screws tightened and left to cure. This will form a composite sandwich structure with a much increased 2nd moment of area. Can't imagine an extra ply added to the six already there will increase the stiffness significantly. M C CLARK >>> Tony Renshaw 2/April/1999 01:45pm >>> Gidday, Can someone please help me to find the reference to the no. of additional plies to place in both the aileron closeouts and the trailing edge of the wing closeouts (Mark I)? I know I have read it recently as the suggestion of addit. plies was made to minimise flex cracking of finished paintwork I believe. Thanks in anticipation Reg Tony Renshaw Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 The Europa List is supported by Aviators Network UK - info@avnet.co.uk --=_E6B0D50D.82E3895E Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 13:45:28 +0200 From: Tony Renshaw Subject: Addit Plies in Aileron Closeouts Gidday, Can someone please help me to find the reference to the no. of additional plies to place in both the aileron closeouts and the trailing edge of the wing closeouts (Mark I)? I know I have read it recently as the suggestion of addit. plies was made to minimise flex cracking of finished paintwork I believe. Thanks in anticipation Reg Tony Renshaw Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 --=_E6B0D50D.82E3895E-- From xtr120992@xtra.co.nz Tue Apr 6 21:06:34 1999 Subject: Sun n Fun....Avionics Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:06:34 From: Tim Ward Hi, I have a four day stopover in LAX (14th to the 18th) so thought it an opportune time to fly over to the Sun'n' Fun to pick up some avionics. Any advice about such an exercise would be appreciated. Six instruments required, preferably including electrical AH and DI. Has anyone done a similar exercise and for what kind of deals. Many thanks, Tim -- Timothy P Ward, 12 Waiwetu Street, Fendalton, Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND. Ph/Fax 0064 03 3515166 email ward.t@xtra.co.nz From ken@kenwhit.demon.co.uk Tue Apr 6 12:17:19 1999 Subject: Re: U/C Mod Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:17:19 From: Kenneth S. Whiteley In message <005c01be7fbb$58cb8f60$139ca4c2@bmaa.avnet.co.uk>, Dave Simpson writes > >Surely the problem is a bearing strength one, not a poor fit of the pin in >the hole from manufacture. If it's bearing strength, then an expanding pin >will only provide a temporary solution. I don't quite agree. My fittings have been a disappointing fit since new (and haven't been flown yet). Secondly the wear will be much more rapid if there is movement. Ken Whiteley From bill@wynne.co.uk Tue Apr 6 21:35:37 1999 Subject: Trailer Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:35:37 From: W.Williams-Wynne Forgive me asking everyone, but I am in a bit of a hurry. Has anyone in the UK got a used Europa trailer of sale? I need it for 6-12 months. Thanks, bill Bill Wynne N52=B036' W004=B004' Talybont 01654-710101 From rowil@clara.net Tue Apr 6 22:37:46 1999 Subject: FAQ V11 part a Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 22:37:46 From: Rowland and Wilma Carson Europa FAQ version 11, last modified 22 February 1999 This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa e-mail list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed by Ivan Shaw (with a little help from Don Dykins). FAQ maintained at present by: Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro & the Europa community] europa-club@rowil.clara.net Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time. Questions answered (* = changed since last version): * 0 Where can I find this FAQ? 1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included? 2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list? 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list? 4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list? 5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list? 6 How can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list? * 7 Can I post attachments or encoded mail to the Europa e-mail list? 8 How do I join the Europa Club? 9 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused! 10 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes? 11 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally? 12 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa? 13 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license? 14 Can I buy a ready-made Europa? 15 How long will it take me to build a Europa? 16 How much will it really cost to build a Europa? 17 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer? 18 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer? 19 What tools will I need to build a Europa? 20 Do I need special skills to build a Europa? 21 How will I know I've built it right? 22 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that? 23 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy? 24 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa? 25 What engines are available for the Europa? 26 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit? 27 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that? * 0 Where can I find this FAQ? ------------------------------- This FAQ is posted during the first week of each month to the Europa e-mail list (starting January 1998). A WWW page containing the latest version is maintained at: http://home.clara.net/rowil/europa/europa_faq.html Previous postings can be found in the Europa e-mail list archives on Avnet - search for a subject line containing "FAQ". Europa Aircraft also maintain a FAQ on their WWW pages at: http://www.europa-aircraft.com/faqs/intro.html 1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included? New items, and correction or enhancement of existing items are welcome. Send your suggestion in e-mail to the FAQ maintainer (see above). Submissions most likely to be incorporated will have similar formatting to the existing FAQ, and display accuracy in spelling, grammar, and syntax. The ultimate deciding factor, however, will be the quality and relevancy of the information. The maintainer reserves the right to edit for brevity, clarity or humour. 2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list? ------------------------------------------ You can subscribe automatically by sending an e-mail message to europa-request@avnet.co.uk The subject line is not important (put "subscribe europa list" there to remind yourself what it was about) but the body of the message should include the following command: subscribe europa You will then receive a message with instructions on how the list works, and all future contributions to the list. 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list? --------------------------------------------- To remove yourself from the Europa mailing list, send an email to europa-request@avnet.co.uk The subject line is not important (put "unsubscribe europa list" there to remind yourself what it was about) but the body of the message need contain only the word: unsubscribe Please note that all commands (including subscribe and unsubscribe) to the server which runs the Europa e-mail list must be addressed to the server, NOT the list address where the discussion goes on. Doing that will make you look (at best) forgetful, or (at worst) incapable of following simple instructions (and you need to follow a lot of instructions to build an aeroplane). address which is different to one you originally subscribed on, the server will not be able to deal with your request. If your e-mail address changes, first unsubscribe using the old account, then subscribe using the new one. 4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list? You forgot to choose "reply-to-all". Most email clients allow this as an option when creating a reply, and some (like Eudora) can be set to have that behaviour as default. Once the "to" header line has been created, please remove the original sender's name from it, leaving just the part. If you don't remove it, the original sender will get your reply twice & wonder why you're repeating yourself. You might ask why such an apparently inconvenient procedure is necessary. When the Europa e-mail list was set up, the list server (which administers it all) was indeed configured to make the "reply-to" field in the message headers the same as the list address. This was very convenient for users, as any reply was automatically posted for all to see. Of course, it also sometimes caused embarrassment when folk forgot to change the "to" line in their header when composing a reply meant to be read by the sender only. However, much worse could happen when ill-configured or ill-designed e-mail software interacted with list traffic. It could happen that such a system immediately replied to every list message received by it, thus generating another list message, which was again replied to, etc, etc, ad infinitum, thus clogging up the list server and its communication ports with ever-multiplying traffic. Such "mail loops" cannot arise if the "reply-to" field is not set to the list address. To protect the list, and the integrity of all Avnet's operations, this change was made in February 1998. 5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list? The person who replied to your posting forgot to remove your personal email address after choosing the "reply-to-all" option (so that the reply would go to the Europa list). If the original sender's name is not removed from the "to" field in the header, (leaving just the part), the original sender will receive the reply twice - once direct and once via the list. See the answer to the previous question to understand why such an apparently inconvenient arrangement is necessary. 6 How can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list? The browsable archive of e-mail list postings on the Europa Club WWW site is no longer maintained or updated (time & space constraints). However, there is a pretty full archive of the list postings available for download to your own machine. You can order monthly chunks of it from the list server using an e-mail command. Your command (like all commands to the list server) must go to the server address, _not_ the list address. You can get a list of all the files available by sending the message: index europa to the list server address , then have the desired file delivered by sending a message such as: get europa.9706 to the server address, which would get you the postings seen during June 1997. You can collect all the previous postings in this way, but how best organise them so the information is accessible? You could just save them all as text and use a text editor or word-processor application to search for words of interest. You could create your own database system to make browsing easier. Or, you could avoid re-inventing the wheel and use one of the already-developed systems. Peter Thomas created a stand-alone system called EUROCHAT which runs under Windows, and it is available from the Europa Club ftp site (off the main menu). Look for EUROCHAT.ZIP, download it and unzip it. The file as downloaded does not contain all the postings - you have to add them yourself, but instructions are included. Rowland Carson created a database file template for doing much the same thing, but it requires the database manager application FileMaker Pro to function. FMP is available for both Mac and Windows operating systems. The template requires that the text files as saved from the e-mail application be pre-processed for dross removal & formatting before import to the FMP file, and a small Mac tool is available to do that. The C source of the program is also available and should readily port to other platforms if desired as it has minimal interaction with the operating system. Contact Rowland Carson for further details. * 7 Can I post attachments or encoded mail to the Europa e-mail list? The simple answer is "NO" - read on for the longer one. Like most e-mail lists, and in line with accepted netiquette, we would prefer that you do not post encoded material, whether it's HTML, styled text, pictures, compiled programs or even encrypted text. Do not post messages with attachments to the list. The Europa e-mail list was set up to be as accessible as possible to the greatest number of people, and one way to maintain this is to avoid using any coding that may only be decodable by a minority of those receiving it. (The only form of encoding acceptable to virtually all e-mail users is MIME, which operates invisible to the user in all modern mail clients.) If you care about whether anyone will read your message, send plain text. Most people don't have time to spend untangling an incomprehensible mess to find if there might be a nugget of good stuff somewhere in it - they're much too busy trying to build aeroplanes! If there is something (such as a circuit diagram) which can't be expressed in plain text, but is worth sharing with the majority of the Europa community, there are two possibilities: (1) if it's urgent, ask the Europa Club internet representative to put the file on the ftp or www site; (2) submit it to the Europa Club newsletter editor for inclusion in the next quarterly issue of the "Europa Flyer". See the Europa Club WWW pages, or the lastest "Europa Flyer", for the current addresses. If an individual has requested an encoded file, make sure you address the message to that person, NOT the list! Most e-mail clients (eg Eudora Pro) which are capable of sending encoded or styled text can be configured to warn you before sending if a message contains styles. The Outlook Express address book allows you to specify for each addressee whether they should be sent only plain text. Other applications (eg www browsers) may come pre-configured to send HTML by default, and you may have to dig around in the configuration dialogue boxes to achieve the desired settings. 8 How do I join the Europa Club? ----------------------------------- Contact the Membership Secretary for full information. At present the Membership Secretary is: Rowland Carson 4 Saville Close CHELTENHAM Gloucestershire England GL50 4NE 9 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused! The Europa factory puts out a newsletter from time to time, a subscription to which is mandatory for all builders. Those not yet building can also subscribe, but will not receive the inserts with details of modifications, etc, which go only to builders. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Aircraft" at the office in Yorkshire, England or Florida, USA depending on your own location. Europa Aircraft is opening new outlets in other countries which will probably be able to handle factory newsletter subscriptions - check the factory WWW site (see below) for the latest addresses. The Europa Club puts out a newsletter (The Europa Flyer) four times a year (Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec) to all paid-up Europa Club members. Subscriptions are paid to "Europa Club". The Club and its newsletter is not connected with the Europa factory or its newsletter. The Europa e-mail list on the internet is open to anyone to join. There is no charge. Like most things on the internet, it is not controlled by anyone. Neither Europa Aircraft nor the Europa Club have any power over what goes on there, although representatives from both take part from time to time. It's simply a forum for discussion among Europa enthusiasts. Many of the useful nuggets of information appearing there are reproduced in the Europa Club newsletter. The list was set up by and is still maintained by, a Europa Club member, in the time left over from bringing up a family, earning a living, and building a Europa. Both the Europa Club (http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa/) and Europa Aircraft (http://www.europa-aircraft.com) have World Wide Web sites, and they are linked together. The Club pages provide access to the archives of the Europa e-mail list, and some past copies of the FACTORY newsletter, but NOT the CLUB newsletter - that is available to Club members only. ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... From rowil@clara.net Tue Apr 6 22:38:54 1999 Subject: FAQ V11 part b Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 22:38:54 From: Rowland and Wilma Carson Europa FAQ version 11, last modified 22 February 1999 This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa e-mail list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed by Ivan Shaw (with a little help from Don Dykins). FAQ maintained at present by: Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro & the Europa community] europa-club@rowil.clara.net Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time. Questions answered (* = changed since last version): * 0 Where can I find this FAQ? 1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included? 2 How do I join the Europa e-mail list? 3 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list? 4 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list? 5 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list? 6 How can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list? * 7 Can I post attachments or encoded mail to the Europa e-mail list? 8 How do I join the Europa Club? 9 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused! 10 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes? 11 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally? 12 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa? 13 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license? 14 Can I buy a ready-made Europa? 15 How long will it take me to build a Europa? 16 How much will it really cost to build a Europa? 17 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer? 18 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer? 19 What tools will I need to build a Europa? 20 Do I need special skills to build a Europa? 21 How will I know I've built it right? 22 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that? 23 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy? 24 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa? 25 What engines are available for the Europa? 26 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit? 27 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that? 10 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes? Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft organisation, and you can get help and advice by joining. In UK, it's the Popular Flying Organisation (PFA) with local Struts. In USA, it's the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) with local Chapters. In France, it's Reseau du Sport de l'Air (RSA). 11 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally? Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc). The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup: rec.aviation.homebuilt You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA. If you live elsewhere, things may be different. Several books are available on the subject. Allan J Hall said: My vote for most useful books would be: Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis Firewall Forward - Tony Bingelis Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue Jim Campbell said: Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740 pages detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits as well as over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic composite construction technigues to test flying and dealing with the Feds... US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881. 1-800-356-7767 Rowland Carson said: I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your Homebuilt - the one you'll finish Kitplane Construction by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft Construction by Burt Rutan. All except the last are available from the PFA bookshop. I can't understand why they don't do the Rutan one - I got mine ---From Aircraft Spruce, who also do a kit of materials to go with it, so you can try out the techniques on a small scale. 12 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa? This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some countries will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility that you spend several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then find that: you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a flight medical; you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to pay for training; you don't really like flying in a small plane; you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane. OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but maybe you might have chosen to use your time differently had you known in advance. 13 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license? No. The Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license. It is too big, fast, and heavy to be classed as an ultralight or microlight. The rules defining microlights are slightly different in different countries, but the Europa would not meet any of them. As far as formal pilot qualifications are concerned, it's in the same category as a Cessna 150. However, since (in its most popular configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your flight safety will be greatly enhanced by having some prior taildragger experience, and even more by getting some training on the Europa itself ---From a pilot experienced on type before you launch solo. 14 Can I buy a ready-made Europa? ----------------------------------- The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's built one and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that someone who has developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling and cannot complete the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit. Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of general pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in the magazines of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular Flying" & EAA's "Sport Aviaton"). You can also find them in a Europa-specific forum such as the Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the Europa internet e-mail list. You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else build an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the CAA and the FAA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain specialist jobs (eg painting, avionics installation) being done by others, but you should be prepared to prove that you have done the bulk of the building yourself. Also, if you buy an aircraft either completed, or on which someone else has done the majority of work, you may not be allowed to perform maintenance tasks on it unless you can demonstrate to the appropriate authorities that you are competent to do so (which you would normally demonstrate by building the whole thing yourself!). 15 How long will it take me to build a Europa? ------------------------------------------------ In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit: With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know of is just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500. Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete from Europa Club members: 900 1200 1500+ 1580 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000+ 2300 2400 2400 2500 2500 ~2800 2900 2900 3000 3000+ Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working) builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with on first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a concours-winner "show plane" - or even all of the above! 16 How much will it really cost to build a Europa? ---------------------------------------------------- John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995: Kit delivered 19250 Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given) Rotax 914 12500 prop 1500 Inst/avionics 10000 Upholst/paint 1000 ----- Total 45000 Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995: Type: Item: Total (incl VAT): Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75 Stage 2 wings 4,641.25 Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50 Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00 Fitting kit 2,937.50 overflow bottle 39.95 rectifier/regulator 41.13 slipper clutch 323.13 vacuum pump 675.63 Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50 Instruments altimeter 199.75 air speed 141.00 vertical speed 129.25 turn and slip 282.00 gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10 directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30 standby compass 70.50 Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42 Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25 Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13 Terra height encoder 207.48 Antenna kit 17.63 GPS 705.00 Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75 navigation lights 176.25 strobe 229.13 landing light 0.00 intercom 30.55 Finish paint 587.50 paint labor 2,750.00 interior trim 587.50 Trailer 1,568.63 workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76 Total: 42,355.69 my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00 Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69 In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds): Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500 Rotax engine kit # 9,000 Average Instrument Fit # 3,000 (ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches) Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500 Paint and misc parts # 1,000 Registration & test flying # 1,000 Value Added Tax # 4,725 This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality will end up spending nearer 35 - 40,000. I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay your hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the region of 1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia: The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a quote from Europa for a part share in a container for any future stages I may choose to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me $6000.00 approx (2900.00 Pounds). A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds Packing 40.00 Crating 115.00 Insurance 16.00 Delivery approx 423.00 Fuselage Kit 5200.00 Packing 60.00 Crating 435.00 Insurance 21.00 Delivery 696.00 If both purchased together Wing kit 3800.00 Fuse " 5200.00 Packing 100.00 Crating 435.00 Insurance 36.00 Delivery 1078.00 If both were sent in a container Wing kit 3800.00 Fuse " 5200.00 Packing 160.00 Insurance 36.00 Delivery 700.00 17 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer? Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when he got his Europa built back in New Zealand, so when he visited the factory, he brought a tape measure: The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at Kirbymoorside, are as follows..... Height 84 inches 214 cm Width 81 inches 206 cm Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm 18 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer? No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK, including several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade Trailers, and Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa Flyer at various times. You can also design and build your own, as described in Europa Flyer #12. EAA's Experimenter carried an article on trailers in Vol 18 No 4, April 1998, pp 11-15 & 40-41. 19 What tools will I need to build a Europa? ---------------------------------------------- John J Moran wrote: The list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've come up with a more expansive (expensive?) list. Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow them if possible. In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill bits etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the following: Hand Tools: Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging Center punch, automatic Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to C clamps. Cold chisel - to cut control cable Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points Countersink, 45 degree Dial caliper - optional but very useful Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed. Hacksaw Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?) Hot glue gun Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level Long board sander - as used for autobody work Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?) Paint pen, optional, available at art stores Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker Pad saw (aka back saw) Pop riveter Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for many things including as a mini-squeegee when filling pinholes. Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife trim stage. Many other uses. Respirator, with activated charcoal filters Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?) Scribe, carbide tip Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler. Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well. Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc. Tape measure Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?) Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred Tubing cutter Utility knife Wire crimper for electrical terminals Wood chisel, 1/2" Power Tools: Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on Tufnol. Handy for fitting the footwell floors and fuselage rear bulkhead too. Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks work great for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming. The drum sanders work well on glass. The wire brush removes foam and micro from glass prior to bonding. Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due to heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll end up buying a new tool. Drill press - required Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save some time since often one must drill holes and then enlarge or countersink them. Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice. Orbital sander - saves time, not required. Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill. Router - handy if you happen to have one Shop vacuum - required Things you make Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so that it is about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a nice fillet when applying flox or micro in a corner. Wipe it off when you're done and re-use. It will last forever, preserved in epoxy. Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold sandpaper worked for me. Used with electric drill to fit the control stick. Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued on using rubber cement. Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left over from wing inspection ports instead of plywood - for flexibility. Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for long board sander as found at auto stores. Shop Aprons Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and squeegees. Foam blocks work fine for this. Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber cemented to them. Make several with different grits. Consumables Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making more precise patterns than using paper. Can be cut with scissors. I found this at the local newspaper where they use the sheets in the printing process. Fish line Hot glue sticks Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent) Masking tape Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware store. Use for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts with the sticky nuts. Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes, etc. Also use to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking. Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper Sandpaper Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of vinyl tubing slipped over the nose to seal to the surface while injecting. Can often be washed and re-used. Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go over them. Use string gloves as liners to absorb perspiration. I'm not done building yet. Any suggestions for additions to the list? 20 Do I need special skills to build a Europa? ------------------------------------------------ Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or at least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official reasons given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is "education". Few people who have not previously built a foam & glass aeroplane will be familiar with the techniques, but most will reach an acceptable standard after some small practice pieces. 21 How will I know I've built it right? ----------------------------------------- Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable standard - may even help you do some things first time around! You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make & keep small samples of each batch of layup that you do, which can be tested to destruction as proof of strength. 22 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that? ---------------------------------------------------- Graham Singleton said: Burt Rutan described the best check I know. 6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface. Squeegee out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in. If too much pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres relax. Allow to cure, cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and weigh. 297 gms is a bit light and might have air voids. 310 gms is perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your aircraft was built to this ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40 lbs overweight. (18 Kgs if you must ) 23 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy? ------------------------------------------------- John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system causes least reaction: I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less prone to provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was allergic to that too. Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am I allergic to Redux. It's a matter of personal chemistry, so buy a small amount and try it before commiting. For me, a respirator wasn't sufficient so I had to get a Hobbyair to allow work to continue. The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the hardner. Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's personal reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to Aeropoxy that a couple hours in the garage with the wings which had cured for over three weeks would cause a major reaction, so apparently the amines out-gas for quite a while. Touching the cured wings also caused serious problems. Washing the cured parts with a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water - required before filling anyway - eliminated this sensitivity entirely. Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to the gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an epoxy allergy since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously. Avoid gloves which use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely to provoke an allergy and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile gloves are a good alternative. Use string gloves as a liner to minimize softening of the skin due to sweat since this increases absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the latex gloves when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally impermeable to epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves when exposed to wet epoxy. The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some become so sensitive that termination is the only alternative. Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized. 24 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa? In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is the ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but they have delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So, as an aircraft builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the US, you deal with the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the aircraft for flight. In UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but rather a "Permit to Fly", similar to that issued for a manufacturer's prototype. In USA, they are issued a C of A in the "Experimental" category. In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an inspector appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections, the aircraft will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of the building process, preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical Counselor" is required in USA. Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority must be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable standard of workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the builder (ie not built by a "hired gun") and that it matches the design to agreed tolerances. Any modifications made by the builder must also be approved. The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about the UK paperwork requirements. 25 What engines are available for the Europa? ----------------------------------------------- Europa Aircraft only supply and recommend Rotax engine packages at present. Other engines are available from independent sources - Europa Aircraft are not at present pursuing alternative powerplants in-house. Rotax 912 80bhp (flying) Rotax 912S 100bhp (test flying, expected to be generally available around end 1998) Rotax 914 115 bhp, turbocharged (flying) NSI Subaru 100bhp & 118bhp (flying) Mid-West rotary (has flown in at least 2 Europas) Jabiru 4-cylinder (flying in Jabiru; Europa installation first flown June 1998) Jabiru 6-cylinder (engine under development) JPX 4TX90/A flat-4 90bhp (Europa installation being developed by builder in Italy) Sauer 90bhp (flying in Austria) Limbach 2000 EO (Europa installation being developed by Columbian builder) Wilksch Aeromotive 3-cyl 2-stroke 120bhp turbodiesel (factory trial due 1999) BMW RS1100 (Reduction drives developed in UK & Germany, flown in other aircraft) The majority of Europas now flying use the Rotax 912, which has proved very reliable in the Europa (and many other aircraft types); although several of the other engine packages are flying in other designs, not enough are in service in Europas to make statistically significant comparisons. Engine installations usually differ from one design of aircraft to another. The size of propellor that can be used, the cowl shape, and in particular, changes in the design of cooling ducts, mean that experience in other designs may not transfer directly to the Europa situation. 26 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit? The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the useable internal width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed. Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great outdoors (freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping the rudder pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about shoulder room. Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider what it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less roomy for the very tall than some of the other kits (such as the Glastar) but then it has many other advantages over these, such as fuel economy and all-round elegance. It is much roomier than some of the more direct competition such as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I believe) and designed it to be comfortable for him. The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you have a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase this (one UK builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a substantial modification which could provide the answer). If you have any doubts then find a finished example and try at least to have a long "sit" - whilst making the obligatory "brrmming" noises of course. At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort during long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of work. The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a visit and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder left convinced that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as to how he must have been proportioned! 27 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that? Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa is capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up. The snag, as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right and you have failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for error and, at a certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are committed and there is no room to change your mind. Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that there is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never need that room - but ... but ... but ... but ... My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I would be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields. ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... From Gramin@aol.com Tue Apr 6 17:41:49 1999 Subject: TP12 and loctite Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 17:41:49 From: Gramin@aol.com I have failed to bond my TP12's to the tube in situ, even with the "penetrating" type of Loctite (209). This was after attempting to flush the gap with solvent under air pressure to clean it. Has anyone succeeded in this? or do we have to go through the arduous gymnastic exercise devised by Graham S. ? Andy is away, but I am told the factory are not treating this as a problem and are not intending to offer any solution. A possible solution is to bond/rivet an external flanged ring to the tube and TP12 drive plate, but it would then be necessary to resite the TP5 further into the tailplane to make space for it. Graham C. G-EMIN From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Tue Apr 6 11:30:17 1999 Subject: Re: U/C Mod Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:30:17 From: Graham Singleton >Graham, > >Surely the problem is a bearing strength one, not a poor fit of the pin in >the hole from manufacture. If it's bearing strength, then an expanding pin >will only provide a temporary solution. > >Dave Simpson That remains to be seen. My gut feeling is that it's a function of poor fit allowing hammering to occur during taxying. Like a loose joint in the middle of a see saw? If it was bearing strength one might expect more rapid wear of the holes. If so the expanding pin should work. If not then Loctite would seem to be the best answer. Graham From ktallent@ns1.avnet.co.uk Wed Apr 7 00:20:32 1999 Subject: Factory Newsletter Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 00:20:32 From: Keith Tallent Can anyone tell me what the latest newsletter from the factory is? Last one I received was issue 19 (Some time ago in 1998) I have since paid my subscription for the promised 4 editions this year but have yet to receive one. Am I alone? I keep getting lots of useless merchandising flyers but no Newsletters! Meanwhile the "Europa Flyer" continues to drop through the door on a regular basis but the trouble is I read it too damn quick! Keith Tallent G-SAMY Kit No 221 From Loontus@aol.com Tue Apr 6 21:12:50 1999 Subject: in line fuse holder for 30 Amps Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:12:50 From: Loontus@aol.com My personal experience with one of these was not good. I was driving my Europa through the Poconos one dark October night in '79 when the holder melted and the inner spring separated the whole thing. The headlights went out and I pulled off the road onto the only shoulder area in 15-20 miles by virtue of the U-Hauls headlights behind me. Had to tow it from there (that's when the brakes burned up, but that's a whole 'nother story). No inlines for me anymore. Make mine metal clips firmly in PC board material or Bakelite or phenolic of some type, especially NEVER in my plane! Dave Faust From andy@europaaircraft.co.uk Wed Apr 7 11:27:18 1999 Subject: Re: FW: U/C mod Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 11:27:18 From: Andy Draper It might be worth adding that the Europa supplied strut weighs only 33grams. Best regards Andy Draper Technical Manager andy=40europa-aircraft.com >>> =22Jens Aabo=22 04/06/99 11:39am >>> -----Original Message----- Sent: 31. marts 1999 20:35 Subject: U/C mod Hi John, Please find my solution to the landing gear mod. I have made a stainless steel fork to support the structure instead of the europa =22tube only=22 version. Happy landings Jens Aabo, kit 158 From dgh@liverpool.ac.uk Wed Apr 7 13:02:48 1999 Subject: Re: Factory Newsletter Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 13:02:48 From: David Hillam wrote: > Can anyone tell me what the latest newsletter from the factory is? > Last one I received was issue 19 (Some time ago in 1998) I have since paid > my subscription for the promised 4 editions this year but have yet to > receive one. Am I alone? > I keep getting lots of useless merchandising flyers but no Newsletters! > Meanwhile the "Europa Flyer" continues to drop through the door on a regular > basis but the trouble is I read it too damn quick! > > Keith Tallent > G-SAMY > Kit No 221 My latest also Issue 19 (undated). ---------------------- David Hillam Kit 113 G-SHSH dgh@liverpool.ac.uk From Fillinger@aol.com Wed Apr 7 09:13:39 1999 Subject: Re: Sun n Fun....Avionics Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 09:13:39 From: Fillinger@aol.com >>I have a four day stopover in LAX (14th to the 18th) so thought it an >>opportune time to fly over to the Sun'n' Fun to pick up some avionics. >>Any advice about such an exercise would be appreciated. Six instruments >>required, preferably including electrical AH and DI. >>Has anyone done a similar exercise and for what kind of deals. >> Many thanks, >>Tim -- >>Timothy P Ward Tim -- I know about Oshkosh but suspect Sun-n-Fun is no different. At OSH 98, I found only one vendor selling new RC Allen electric AH and DG's at $125 each more than Aircraft Spruce or Chief Aircraft. At OSH 97, they were selling the then new GPS III Pilot for a "show special" of $20 off. I flew home, shopped the net and Trade-A-Plane and saved $125 at a little avionics shop in Illinois. These people can't pay huge booth fees and slash prices too. So, if you're buying new, there's no reason to do it at the show. Plus, if there's a Florida sales tax to be paid, that'll cancel out shipping to where you are. Used avionics: I personally have never bought used boxes except from a friend, a local shop I trust whose business is not selling used stuff and who knows the item's history, or factory "refurbs" -- warranty swaps. Beyond that, I would only buy from the larger, well-known dealers (Gulf Coast, Eastern, etc.). You won't save anything, but get at least some warranty, with the principal advantage at the show of being able to inspect the unit and gauge its age and how often it's been pulled and opened up. Don't go by the condition of the faceplate -- they're often brand new, and if there's not a scratch on the aluminum pieces, that may mean the original parts were too beaten up from maintenance pulling, or too many telltale discolorations from "yellow tags" taped to them -- maintenance releases. Enjoy the show.... Regards, Fred FIllinger, A063 From dgh@liverpool.ac.uk Wed Apr 7 13:17:10 1999 Subject: Re: Factory Newsletter Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 13:17:10 From: David Hillam wrote: > > wrote: > > > Can anyone tell me what the latest newsletter from the factory is? > > Last one I received was issue 19 (Some time ago in 1998) I have since paid > > my subscription for the promised 4 editions this year but have yet to > > receive one. Am I alone? > > I keep getting lots of useless merchandising flyers but no Newsletters! > > Meanwhile the "Europa Flyer" continues to drop through the door on a regular > > basis but the trouble is I read it too damn quick! > > > > Keith Tallent > > G-SAMY > > Kit No 221 > _________________________________________________________________ > > > My latest also Issue 19 (undated). Sorry, correction to the above. My latest was Issue 20 (dated December 1998). Yhis reverted to black and white 'photocopy' - not coloured glossy as were issues 14 to 19. > ---------------------- > David Hillam > Kit 113 G-SHSH > > dgh@liverpool.ac.uk > ---------------------- David Hillam dgh@liverpool.ac.uk From aburrill@bottleneck.demon.co.uk Wed Apr 7 19:30:20 1999 Subject: Re: Factory Newsletter Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 19:30:20 From: Alan My latest Europa Aircraft News is a glossy Issue No 19 I also have Tech Talk - Stop Press (No. 19) Haven't had any request for the new (or old) subscription yet. Alan #303 -----Original Message----- From: Keith Tallent Date: 07 April 1999 00:21 Subject: Factory Newsletter >Can anyone tell me what the latest newsletter from the factory is? >Last one I received was issue 19 (Some time ago in 1998) I have since paid >my subscription for the promised 4 editions this year but have yet to >receive one. Am I alone? >I keep getting lots of useless merchandising flyers but no Newsletters! >Meanwhile the "Europa Flyer" continues to drop through the door on a regular >basis but the trouble is I read it too damn quick! > >Keith Tallent >G-SAMY >Kit No 221 > > From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Wed Apr 7 23:53:32 1999 Subject: Re: TP12 and loctite Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 23:53:32 From: Graham Singleton >I have failed to bond my TP12's to the tube in situ, even with the >"penetrating" type of Loctite (209). Jens Gralfs for one. Also Big Jim Naylor, who has tempo exported himself to Aus. > >Andy is away, but I am told the factory are not treating this as a problem >and are not intending to offer any solution. My understanding is that they WILL offer a solution. This is to remove the torque tube from the airplane, reassemble the TP12s etc and ream the holes to take oversize pins. This will require at least as much gymnastix as my plan. PFA have told me I can try my expanding pins on G-KWIP, which I plan to do soon. My test sample appears to work without reaming the holes. Graham From watermrk@indigo.ie Tue Apr 6 22:16:03 1999 Subject: Resin Cupboard Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 22:16:03 From: Terry Coughlan Hello all. I was up in our local dump (rubbish tip, garbage dump) the other day to get rid of the first grass cuttings of spring and while there I liberated a slightly used (one careful owner) resin cupboard cunningly disguised as a fridge. I swiftly stripped out the compressor, condensor and evaporator and now have a well insulated and sealed cabinet with a plastic liner into which I will be fitting a lamp or other heat source. That should keep the stuff nice and cosy. Hope to meet some of you at Sun and Fun next week. I will be the bearded one with the tear stained cheeks. We Volksplane drivers don't have roofs on our machines and the wind plays hell with our complexions as well. Best regards, Terry Coughlan Hello all. as a fridge. I swiftly stripped out the compressor, condensor and source. That should keep the stuff nice and cosy. well. Best regards, Terry Coughlan From NigelCharles@compuserve.com Thu Apr 8 06:55:13 1999 Subject: Front Plate for NSI Prop with Mk1 Spinner Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 06:55:13 From: nigelcharles Message for Klaus Dietrich from Nigel Charles Hi Klaus Your mail server is indicating bad address name so here is the info you required again via the forum. Alternative front plate for NSI Prop/Mk1 Spinner combination is available ---From :- John Scott 68 Millend Road Cambridge Cambridgeshire UK Tel : Home 01223 246452, Mobile 0421 736293, Work 01223 463264 Regards Nigel From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Fri Apr 9 16:06:25 1999 Subject: Vortices Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 16:06:25 From: Tony Renshaw Hello, Was at the family doctor yesterday with 2 sick kids and in the course of the discussion I commented to the Doc that I thought his tie was nice! He replied that it made him "depressed" which immediately got me wondering if I should swap seats with him. I had no option other than to ask him why. He explained that he owns numerous ties but only gets compliments when he wears this one and one other. Both ties were giveaways from a drug company thats specialises in anti-depressants! Lifes like that! Reg Tony Renshaw P.S. thanks for the advice about additional aileron plies! Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From gjaabo@image.dk Fri Apr 9 18:17:44 1999 Subject: SP S'Fill 400 Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 18:17:44 From: Jens Aabo Hi, SP systems are making a lightweight epoxy filler called S'Fill 400. SP recommends to use this filler on top of the ampreg 20 lay-up and to achieve the best finish SP Hibuild 302 primer is recommended. Is their any of you who have used this combination on the Europa or planning to do so!!!! Is it a good combination or is it too heavy? Jens Aabo, kit 158. From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Fri Apr 9 21:15:59 1999 Subject: Portland OR seminar date set . . . Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 21:15:59 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III We've completed the planning for a weekend seminar in Portland OR on Aug 14/15, 1999. Dates coming up soon for SoCal, NoCal, Connecticut, Iowa and/or Ohio. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From jbarahona@carrotnet.com Sat Apr 10 14:59:06 1999 Subject: Magnetos switch Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 14:59:06 From: Javier Barhona According with Aeroelectric and in contradiction with our manual the shield of magnetos wire should be grounded only at engine side. The other side should be attached to magneto switches. I am goint to use a keyswitch (Off-L-R-Both-Start). I will conect one end of the shield to the ground terminal of the keyswitch and the other end to the engine ground. In this way the ground of the keyswitch will be conducted exclusively through the shield to the engine ground. Is this a correct practice?. Thank you very much. Javier Barahona Builder 187 From pma@obtero.net Sat Apr 10 12:49:24 1999 Subject: Terra Avionics & panel clearance Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 12:49:24 From: Paul McAllister I am considering purchasing a secondhand Terra Nav/Glideslope and a Terra transponder. Has anyone fitted Terra units to their Europa ?. The reason I ask is that the length overall is stated as 11 1/2 inches including tray. The panel seems to slope from 11" clearance on one side and 12" on the other. Will it fit ? Paul McAllister 363 http://pma.obtero.net From JThursby@tampabay.rr.com Sat Apr 10 14:08:56 1999 Subject: RE: Terra Avionics & panel clearance Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 14:08:56 From: James Thursby Yes it will. But why would you us Terra? I would look for something else Paul. The general consensus is not good on Terra. Jim Thursby Europa N814AT -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Paul McAllister Sent: Saturday, April 10, 1999 1:49 PM Subject: Terra Avionics & panel clearance I am considering purchasing a secondhand Terra Nav/Glideslope and a Terra transponder. Has anyone fitted Terra units to their Europa ?. The reason I ask is that the length overall is stated as 11 1/2 inches including tray. The panel seems to slope from 11" clearance on one side and 12" on the other. Will it fit ? Paul McAllister 363 http://pma.obtero.net From rowil@clara.net Sat Apr 10 22:47:59 1999 Subject: Europa "new-builder" weekends Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 22:47:59 From: Rowland and Wilma Carson I just read today in the PFA Gloster Strut newsletter that Europa are running residential weekends to introduce new builders to the building process. Includes a demo flight & meal, accomodation etc for 185 pounds sterling. Thought people might like to know about this - although I'm puzzled as to why I heard it first through Harry Hopkins' respected periodical (as he's a tin-bender RV type builder) and not through a Europa factory newsletter (or even a Europa Club newsletter). Or does everyone else except me already know about it? regards Rowland ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Sun Apr 11 08:52:49 1999 Subject: Resin/Hardener/ AIR!!! Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 08:52:49 From: Tony Renshaw Terry, My experience with the Ampreg 20 resin system is that it is far more air sensitive than heat. Beware any large volume of air above your hardener! I have finally found it is best to decant the large container of hardener into small glass food preserving bottles, like Vacola or the type which seal down with a wire mechanism that compresses onto an orange rubber seal. This will minimise the air above the hardener during storage. I get fluctuations of temperature in my workshop from the mid 30's to as low as 14 degrees C, which I know is not very cold, or hot particularly. Even in my resin pump I use a plastic food storage bag draped over the edges down to just above the hardener to isolate it from the air that would otherwise be entrapped. If you ask Mr Ampreg you will find out that I speak from experience as I probably funded there last years operation with hardener purchases! Reg Tony Renshaw > Hello all. I was up in our local dump (rubbish tip, garbage dump) the >other day to get rid of the first grass cuttings of spring and while there >I liberated a slightly used (one careful owner) resin cupboard cunningly >disguised as a fridge. into which I will be fitting a lamp or other >heat source. That should keep the stuff nice and cosy. Hope to meet >some of you at Sun and Fun next week. I will be the bearded one with the >tear stained cheeks. We Volksplane drivers don't have roofs on our >machines and the wind plays hell with our complexions as well. Best >regards, Terry Coughlan Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Mon Apr 12 17:37:14 1999 Subject: Europa Sandwich Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 17:37:14 From: Tony Renshaw Gidday, Does it matter if the additional ply of hinge reinforcement cloth is added between the full length plies or added ontop of the final full length ply? If there is to be a difference in the amount of layers of additional cloth between preconstructed and post-constructed, I can only assume there may be an ideal way to lay this additional ply in. I figure it would be best to go: full length....hinge reinforcement......hinge reinforcement.......hinge reinforcement (recessed inwards)........full length. This would encapsulate the additional ply, which is different to the post-constructed method which would be: full length................ hinge reinforcement............hinge reinforcement.............full length ...........hinge reinforcement. Am I right in this hypothesis, that the additional strength can only be gained in the preconstructed method if the additional ply is sandwiched between the 2 full length plies? I understand that 2 plies is the maximum thickness to maintain a max. of 25:1 ratio of ply distortion to maintain strength, so the additional ply needs to be larger creating a small step up off the first full length ply and another larger step (2 plies) before the last full length ply goes over the top. This is achieved by maintaining a min of 12mm (1/2") between each step. I do this layup tomorrow so any help would be appreciated. Reg Tony Renshaw Yes the text of the Tech Note reads: "The occasional Europa has been noticed to suffer from cracks in the paint local to control surface hinges, indicating excessive flexing of the flange. We are not aware of any damage to the flange itsel being found do far. If your Europa shows similar sysmptoms,, the addition of two plies of 'bid' will stiffen the flange sufficiently. Check the integrity of the flange prior to this repair, and please let us know of any flanges themselves found to be cracked. If in doubt, you will need to remove the paint to inspect the glass fibre surface. On aircraft not yet built, add one ply of hinge reinforcement to both flying surface and control surface flange." By implication one additional layer when building is equivelant to adding two layes to an already built flying/control surface. Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From VP4SkyDoc@aol.com Mon Apr 12 03:57:02 1999 Subject: Re: Epoxy Pumps and storage Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 03:57:02 From: VP4SkyDoc@aol.com I got the following note a few months back off a website. It made a lot of sence to me so I kept it. His soda bottle solution makes the most sense to me because it is cheap, allows the amount of epoxy to be matched easily with the weight of cloth and seems fast. It would also be possible to store the bottles partially 'squeezed' to avoid any volume of air over the epoxy in the bottles. I hope this makes sense and is helpful. Dave Leonard Deigo Garcia Still trying to settle on a design.... >>>>Hello ......................, To answer your question about an epoxy pump warm box: I bought an expensive, variable ratio resin / hardener pump and put it in a warm box. My box is a cube about 2ft X 2ft x 2ft (I'm too lazy to run down to the shop and measure it). Dimensions are not critical anyway as long as it is big enough to hold the pump. I built it out of the "free" 3/8 inch thick plywood crating material that my kit came in, using 2 inch by 2 inch square lumber to provide a frame work. Screwed it together with drywall screws. For insulation I lined the inside of the top, back, front, and sides with some drop in ceiling tile pieces that were lying around. For access, the top and front lift off as a unit--no hinges, real simple. Only hardware is an old drawer handle on the top. Mounted it on an old rolling Sears tool box that the neighbor put out for trash. For heat I installed a porcelain light bulb socket and a line thermostat from Home Depot. The line thermostat handles the 110 volts directly. I use a 100 watt bulb. A coiled nichrome wire heater element screwed into the socket proved too hot and tended to scorch the plywood. I have a small piece of aluminum sheet shielding the plywood closest to the bulb. I keep a thermometer inside the box and try to maintain 70 - 80 degrees F inside. I'm using Aero Poxy, but I'm not sure what the recommended storage temperature is, or if Aero Poxy has ever published one. Now that I've given you all that good info let me ask you a question: Why bother with an epoxy pump? Here is my thinking. To start with you have to have a pretty good scale, I would think, even if you bought a fixed ratio pump. I know that I would check the ratio out with some independent means, and with a variable ratio pump the scale is mandatory to adjust the ratio properly. That will take some fiddling and should be checked every so often. So you start out with that $80 postal scale from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks.. Then why not buy or find a couple of those after market, screw on drinking tops for plastic soft drink bottles that allow you to open or close them with a push or pull? Then get a couple small plastic funnels from the Dollar store (used to be the 5 & 10 cent store). Use a magic marker to mark one R for resin and one H for hardener. Then wash, rinse, and dry out two plastic soft drink bottles of a convenient size and different color and mark them Resin and Hardener also. Then pour your resin and hardener from the factory containers into the two bottles--don't be sloppy--and screw on the drinking tops. Now, either with a pocket calculator, or better yet, a computer spread sheet, work out the numbers (using grams, ounces are too crude) for various quantities of the required mixture by weight. The formula looks something like: X resin grams + Y hardener grams = (X+Y) mixture grams. ( In my case it is 100 rg + 27 hg = 127 mg because the specified ration is 100:27 for my stuff). Dividing by 127 yeilds: .787rg + .212hg = 1mixture gram. Decide what you consider to be appropriate quantities of mixtures to have, and multiply the above equation accordingly. ( I'd pick 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, ........and so forth. (My pump puts out 16 grams of mixture per stroke and I very seldom use less than one stroke). Now with your calculated table or spread sheet handy, decide how much epoxy mixture you want either from weighing your glass fabric or other appropriate technique. Turn on the scale, put on an empty mixing container, zero the scale, and squirt in the proper amount of resin--you should have pretty precise control--then squirt in the proper amount of hardener until the scale reads the proper total amount. Proceed to stir and use the mixture. This may not be as quick as just stroking the pump a few times (with the pump you still have to calculate how many strokes to take if you are looking for a specific amount of mixture), but it sure ain't going to slow you up that much. Some miscellaneous thoughts. You can keep all your resin and hardener supplies in temperature controlled living quarters because all containers are sealed airtight at all times (store the soft drink bottles upside down if you want to be absolutely sure that no air flows in or out). If you are concerned that maybe some of the resin or hardener may be coagulating and separating a bit if it sits a long time (I am), you can slosh your factory containers around a bit before you pour into the soft drink bottles and you can slosh the bottles around a bit before you pour for mixing. You can't do that with the pump containers. You won't have a constant faint (you hope) smell of hardener in your shop (the pump containers are not airtight). And you won't have a crusty build up around the top inside of the pump hardener container. Or suspicions of clogging at the end of the pump outlet tubes. Or worry about the pump going out of adjustment. Or air gaps in your pump outlet tubes that can give you a wrong mixture if you are mixing a small batch. And if you have any suspicions that either the hardener or resin may be sensitive to light, you can store the soft drink containers in a dark place. And the damn pump and stand won't be eating up valuable floor space in your shop. Spend the money you save on the pump to keep your significant other happy. It will pay off in the long run. I welcome comments and questions from others on this subject. Good luck with whatever you decide and please keep us posted--we care. 'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?<<<< From Brian.Finch@unilever.com Wed Apr 7 06:44:51 1999 Subject: Used 912 ? Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 06:44:51 From: Brian.Finch@unilever.com Hi all, I have mailed this in the hope of finding a USED Rotax 912 to fit my K itfox now that you guys have the choice of the more powerful 921S. If you are thinking of upgrading please contact me with any details (p rice, hours, timing) at:- brian.finch@unilever.com Kind Regards Brian Finch From m2@lineone.net Sun Apr 11 15:34:08 1999 Subject: EUROPA PARTS FOR SALE Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 15:34:08 From: lineonem2@lineone.net FOR SALE EUROPA MONO-WHEEL, OUTRIGGERS AND NEW-STYLE TAIL-WHEEL (XS TYPE). AVAILABLE AS I HAVE CONVERTED TO A TRI-CYCLE CONFIGURATION. REASONABLE OFFERS TEL MIKE 01423340398 (NOT TO THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS !) From jronjones@email.msn.com Sun Apr 11 11:13:06 1999 Subject: Message from Sandy Pels Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 11:13:06 From: J Ron Jones TO ALL EUROPA CLUB MEMBERS Many people seem only just to have received the current magazine (Europa Flyer No. 20). So, I would be grateful if those planning to come to Truro on 17th April could let me know by telephone or fax on 01824 780646 asap. Regards to all, Sandy and Emile From ktallent@ns1.avnet.co.uk Mon Apr 12 15:40:06 1999 Subject: Re: Europa "new-builder" weekends Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:40:06 From: Keith Tallent I've not heard anything but then the factory newsletter seems to be slow in showing up. Perhaps details will be in that publication. (Issue no 21 ?? will it be glossy, will it be a photo copy, one things for sure it's already late!). Keith Kit 221 G-SAMY -----Original Message----- From: Rowland and Wilma Carson Date: 10 April 1999 10:43 Subject: Europa "new-builder" weekends >I just read today in the PFA Gloster Strut newsletter that Europa are >running residential weekends to introduce new builders to the building >process. Includes a demo flight & meal, accomodation etc for 185 pounds >sterling. > >Thought people might like to know about this - although I'm puzzled as to >why I heard it first through Harry Hopkins' respected periodical (as he's a >tin-bender RV type builder) and not through a Europa factory newsletter (or >even a Europa Club newsletter). Or does everyone else except me already >know about it? > >regards > >Rowland > > >... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... > > From DaveBuzz@aol.com Mon Apr 12 11:30:43 1999 Subject: Re: Terra Avionics & panel clearance Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 11:30:43 From: DaveBuzz@aol.com In a message dated 10/04/99 18:55:16 GMT Daylight Time, pma@obtero.net writes: << I am considering purchasing a secondhand Terra Nav/Glideslope and a Terra transponder. Has anyone fitted Terra units to their Europa ?. Will it fit ? Paul, it will just fit in the centre panel but you will need to support the mounting frame, and the wiring will be very close up against the rear of the firewall. I fitted a terror comm and transponder, and made a cut out in the firewall covered by a stainless steel sheet for more room. PFA approved, quote G-BXUM. If its cheap enough then it may be a bargain, but there are more supportive manufacturers of nav/comm/xpdr kit on the market, and most of the emails detailing problems with comms have been referring to terra's. According to Trimble UK at Hook, Hants, they are unable to support Terra kit and their recommendation when i phoned with a query was 'send it back to the states'. If they work, fine - just hope they keep working! chus, dave g-bxum From DaveBuzz@aol.com Mon Apr 12 11:30:44 1999 Subject: TP12 tailplane access Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 11:30:44 From: DaveBuzz@aol.com just when you thought that TP12 thread had died a death... as an alternative to blowing loctite, squeezing down the back or working through a 4" dia hole, why not cut a hole in the top of the finished fuselage. before you all shout, no, i have not tried it, and NO, IT IS NOT AN APPROVED METHOD. The idea would be to make a vertical cut, 1" in front of the (old) tailplane bulkhead down to the joggle, then forward level with the joggle for as long as your forearm plus probably a couple of inches (so's you can 'pull'). With a nice big hole in the top, lean over and pull out whatever pins/bolts/cable/split pins are required. When finished, layup either a flange and fasteners, to keep access if you feel the need, or permamently fix with bid strips, sufficiently large enough to retain the original fuzz strength, inside and out. The inside ones could be done through the access panel. In the UK, the PFA would have to approve this method and of course the Factory would need to be involved for size of bid strips and whether it is actually feasable or not. However, i thought the idea of glass planes was their ease of repairability, or was that a porky. yours, waiting to be shot down in flames chus, dave g-bxum kit67 From mike.cater@talk21.com Mon Apr 12 19:33:57 1999 Subject: No Subject Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:33:57 From: mike.cater@talk21.com Any of you chaps out there interested in buying a used Rotax 912U engine? Mike Costin has one for sale, he has fitted a 912S. The engine has done 129 hours and all mods due to date have been done. Mike can be reached on phone 01604 820132, or fax 01604 845755. ----------------------------------------------------- This message has been sent from talk21 http://www.talk21.com/ From fkyle@bigwave.ca Mon Apr 12 14:47:59 1999 Subject: EPOXY PUMPS etc.... Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:47:59 From: Fergus Kyle Cheers: Now that the topic has come up, my solution was to forebear levers and dirty cups by acquiring a 400gm electronic scale whose accuracy was to the nearest 0.1GM. I printed a computor sheet giving common ratios (Aeropoxy I'm using is 27gm/100gm hardener/resin ratios) for easy measuring. This way, at 100gm totals, I measure to within 0.1gm, giving an accuracy of 1/10 %. In most cases, I use small batches (dry micro and flox preparations) in 35mm photo containers or 50-70gm amounts in intermediate bulkfood contianers and save the Europa sizes for large areas like wing covers, etc. With my childbride hovering over the scale and producing batches for a buddy and self during the big layups, I have never experienced an error over 0.2 percent ratio, so am confident of good mixes. The little batches give me small samples of epoxy from each layup for the inspector or (heaven forbid) forensic engineering. I am careful about using previous bulk food containers because of possible fat/oil contamination and use only new. I bought sveral sets of water containers such as used by trekkers and joggers etc. These incorporate snap-on covers to the pouring spouts and secondary (+/- 3/32") vacuum relief holes. I keep them bottles full by topping up from originasl containers, snap the pouring holes closed and fill the airholes with horse-size plastic hypodermics for accurate dispensing. All go into a lighttight cupboard for storage between rampages. I spoke to "George" at the labs at Aeropoxy regarding deterioration of the combinants and was assured that little or no effect up to five years of storage, provided hardener is not exposed to fresh air. Colour makes no odds, either (my hardener is darkening even in the sealed containers shipped by Aeropoxy). Anyway, thass my method......... Happy Landings Ferg (#A064) From JohnJMoran@aol.com Wed Apr 14 08:51:01 1999 Subject: Cowl Blemishes? Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:51:01 From: JohnJMoran@aol.com I am using the Mk 1 cowl which I have stored for the past 2 years in a spare bedroom where the temperature is fairly stable - a relatively benign environment compared to what the cowl will eventually endure. Now that I have begun working on the cowl, adding the NACA duct and access doors, I noticed that there is some cracking of the gelcoat on the upper cowl in a couple of local areas, one about 4 inches in diameter, the other about 2 by 3. There are other areas which seem to be starting to crack and all the defects seem to be near the front of the cowl in an area which will be prominent on the finished aircraft. The cracks have a peculiar branching structure so I believe they are due to shrinkage rather than something dropped on the cowl. There are two scrapes, on the top corner where the cowl bends sharply toward the propeller opening, which have been crudely covered with gelcoat. There were also several small gaps or air bubbles under the gelcoat along the top edge of the opening for the radiators. The lower cowl is fine, with no cracking, bubbles, or scrapes apparent. I pressed on the bubbles with a thumbnail to break them and will fill with flox and sand so this should be no problem. The scrapes should be easily fixed with micro. My question is what to do about the cracking of the gelcoat which seems to be due to shrinkage of the gelcoat itself or a layer just beneath it. Is this a problem others have seen? Will sanding and filling solve the problem permanently? How does one prevent this from continuing/progressing, eventually causing cracks in the finish paint? John A044 From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Sun Apr 11 21:30:51 1999 Subject: Re: Magnetos switch Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 21:30:51 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III >According with Aeroelectric and in contradiction with our manual the shield >of magnetos wire should be grounded only at engine side. The other side >should be attached to magneto switches. > >I am goint to use a keyswitch (Off-L-R-Both-Start). I will conect one end >of the shield to the ground terminal of the keyswitch and the other end to >the engine ground. In this way the ground of the keyswitch will be >conducted exclusively through the shield to the engine ground. Is this a >correct practice?. > >Thank you very much. > >Javier Barahona >Builder 187 Try it any way you wish . . . but if you have ignition noise in your audio system and/or radios then the technique suggested is a possible cure. . . From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Wed Apr 14 09:19:16 1999 Subject: Groton, CT seminar date set . . . Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:19:16 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III Final arrangements are being made on a seminar in Groton, CT for June 26/27, 1999. See . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html . . . for details. Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Thu Apr 15 10:01:01 1999 Subject: Re: wire harness and busses Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 10:01:01 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III >Bob, why do you recommend fuses over circuit breakers for aircraft use? >With a military aviation background I instinctively expect to array my >panel with C/Bs for individual equipment, Main Buss A, Main Buss B, and >Essential Buss. That's mostly because military airplanes are war machines. Any form of failure is a distraction to a pilot that could happen while he's being shot at . . . further, the equipment and design philosophies prevalent in military aircraft and flowed down to air transport category airplanes is deeply rooted in aviation antiquity. Institutional inertia in both military and commercial aircraft almost assures us that change will be slow in coming and lag a decade or more behind the advancements we enjoy in our automobiles and consumer electro- goodies. > >I'm thinking access when something surges, being able to power off >busses (down to Essential) when electrical fire threatens, power >removal for maintenance, etc. Read the articles referenced or reprinted on my website. Look at downloadable power distribution diagrams from the back of our book. All of those concerns are easily addressed with simple, inexpensive and pilot-friendly hardware and design philosophies . . . breakers, magnetos, carbs, ADFs, VORs, and iron gyros of the 1950s are replacable with more reliable, lower cost equipment that place an RV light-years ahead of a brand new C172 for 1/3 the dollars. > >Fuses seem limited for aviation use. Granted _I've_ never had to pop >or reset a C/B in my civilian flying yet (knock, knock, knock) but...? What is generally the first clue that a breaker has opened in flight? Somthing has quit working or you threw a switch and the expected thing didn't happen. Now, suppose you look at the breaker panel and a breaker is out . . . what do you know? Something is sufficiently wrong with the system to warrant disconnection to avoid fire in the airplane. Now, suppose something isn't working and NO breakers are popped. What do you know? The thing that didn't work is STILL not working. Given that failures which do NOT pop fuses generally outnumber the ones that do pop fuses by 10:1 and given that resetting an OVERLOADED circuit in flight may be foolhardy, what then is the value of having a breaker on the panel? Probability that replacing a fuse or resetting a breaker will get your equipment back on line SHOULD be slim to zero . . . granted, there are numerous cases where breakers in certified iron will NUSIANCE trip . . . a condition tolerated only in the holy-water sprinkled airplanes 'cause it's so damned difficult to correct a certfied mistake. Not so with your home built. If you experience nusiance tripping, replace the protection and feedline with the next larger size . . . there is no reason for an amateur built owner to expect anything but the best performance from his/her airplane and modifications toward achieving that goal are only a toolbox away. Our brothers flying the certified iron are not so fortunate. Did you know that the majority of single engine airplanes have at least one breaker DESIGNED to nusiance trip? Besides, what single piece of equipment is going into your airplane that is essential to your comfortable completion of flight? If you have such equipment, why are you worried about breakers/fuses? There are LOTS of ways electro-goodies crap that don't involve breakers/fuses. Therefore I'll suggest that worrying about how you protect critical circuits isn't very productive. Planning for BACKUP to critical devices is much more useful. Does your flight bag have a handheld GPS and COM radio? Do you have a single-lamp panel-flood feedable from the hot side of the battery contactor? Do you have ACTIVE notification of altenrator failure? Are you going to maintain your battery to the extent that it will support minimum essential equipment for duration of fuel on board? If you have dual electronic ignition, are you planning for dual batteries? I'll suggeset that issues of FLIGHT SYSTEM RELIABILITY have little to do with what kind of hardware you use rather how you wire it up and having PLAN B operating procedures that turn ANY failure into a ho-hum event. Recall the L-1011 that went into the Florida swamp a few years back? The whole cockpit crew was busy trying to figure out why a gear down indicator light wasn't illuminated. Intent upon mechanic's duties in flight, they ignored a/p disconnect tones and other warnings while a perfectly good airplane full of people went into the mud. Never happen to me? I wouldn't bet on it . . . unless I observe the simple rule that one wears a pilot's hat in the air and save the mechanic's hat for on the ground. Design your system to be FAILURE TOLERANT, not in-flight maintainable. Modern hardware and design philosophies unencumbered by institutional dogma and government "assistance" allows us to built the best airplanes ever. From ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk Thu Apr 15 23:54:20 1999 Subject: RE: Cowl Blemishes? Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:54:20 From: Plantragg Developments Hi! John. Re:- Your message about the MK l Cowl. Have you thought about a replacement Cowl ? I have one for sale at a cheap price , and one of your American colleagues will be over here in about two weeks and will visit me , he has bought a kit and may be able to get an additional cowl dispatched with it.? If you are interested. Regards Bob Harrison Builder 337 G-PTAG e-mail ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk -----Original Message----- From: JohnJMoran@aol.com [SMTP:JohnJMoran@aol.com] Sent: 14 April 1999 13:51 Subject: Cowl Blemishes? I am using the Mk 1 cowl which I have stored for the past 2 years in a spare bedroom where the temperature is fairly stable - a relatively benign environment compared to what the cowl will eventually endure. Now that I have begun working on the cowl, adding the NACA duct and access doors, I noticed that there is some cracking of the gelcoat on the upper cowl in a couple of local areas, one about 4 inches in diameter, the other about 2 by 3. There are other areas which seem to be starting to crack and all the defects seem to be near the front of the cowl in an area which will be prominent on the finished aircraft. The cracks have a peculiar branching structure so I believe they are due to shrinkage rather than something dropped on the cowl. There are two scrapes, on the top corner where the cowl bends sharply toward the propeller opening, which have been crudely covered with gelcoat. There were also several small gaps or air bubbles under the gelcoat along the top edge of the opening for the radiators. The lower cowl is fine, with no cracking, bubbles, or scrapes apparent. I pressed on the bubbles with a thumbnail to break them and will fill with flox and sand so this should be no problem. The scrapes should be easily fixed with micro. My question is what to do about the cracking of the gelcoat which seems to be due to shrinkage of the gelcoat itself or a layer just beneath it. Is this a problem others have seen? Will sanding and filling solve the problem permanently? How does one prevent this from continuing/progressing, eventually causing cracks in the finish paint? John A044 From gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 16 20:30:41 1999 Subject: Absence! Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 20:30:41 From: Gerry Holland I shall not be around from Saturday 17th April till April 24th due to business in US. (and some serious 'aviation' spending!) There should be no problems with Web site or e-mail List that cant wait till my return but Moira at Avnet may help if you e-mail her if a major failure occurs. moira@avnet.co.uk Regards Gerry Europa Bldr No. 384 G-DDSC Gerry Holland Intranet Solutions Inc. Website: http://www.intranetsol.com gerry.holland@intranetsol.com gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Mobile +44 (0) 7808 402404 Office +44 (0) 1761 435706 Fax +44 (0) 1761 432472 From nigelgraham@mentorg.com Sat Apr 17 01:21:06 1999 Subject: Re: TP12 tailplane access Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 01:21:06 From: Nigel Graham > > No, Dave you won't be shot down in flames, cos we're all at Sun & Fun. Watching > Gernot cook us a superb barbecue, {{{{{:-)>>>> Graham S, Nigel, David, Gernot, Steve (new boy), Mark & Roger the gliding Targett, > > However, i thought the idea of glass planes was their ease of > repairability, or was that a porky. > yours, waiting to be shot down in flames > From gccole13@cwcom.net Sat Apr 17 10:06:50 1999 Subject: Lyndhurst Touchdown Services fuel level indicator - PFA requirements Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:06:50 From: Gerry Cole Please can anyone help, I am new to the game of clearing mods with the PFA. I want to fit the LTS 9-step fuel level indicator, as described by Jim Naylor in Europa Flyer no 19. I've got the unit but LTS is currently closed to next week and I can't contact Jim. As a result I've drawn a blank at the PFA. 1. Does anyone have the PFA mod number for this installation? 2. Can anyone confirm that the PFA accept a total of four (two either side) layers of bid to re-inforce the 2 1/2 inch diameter access hole? The hole will be just inboard of the left headrest. ( The main hole in the tank itself will be 1 1/2 inch dia.) I'm ready to put the tank into the cockpit module - a very slow build- but can't move until I' m sure of the facts. Gerry Cole , no 121, gccole13@cwcom.net From DaveSimpson@londonweb.net Sat Apr 17 16:09:24 1999 Subject: Re: Lyndhurst Touchdown Services fuel level indicator - PFA requirements Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:09:24 From: Dave Simpson Gerry, I installed an elliptical tank inspection hole between the headrests. Andy Draper at Europa told me that the rule of thumb for reinforcement around a hole rim is to apply 3 times the VOLUME of the composite removed by making the hole (ignoring the foam core). In the case of the cockpit module, the glass is 300 gms/sq.m. and there are 2 laminates on top, one underneath. Your 0.031725m radius hole thus had pi x 0.031725 squared x 3 x 300 = 2.846 gms in it. Reinforce the rim with 3 times this = 8.5 grammes of glass. Bid supplied with the kit is 280gms per sq. m. The weights of the fabric which went into the hole and that used for the reinforcement, are near enough to give you very similar volumes when wetted out. I cleared out the foam 5 mm back around the hole edge and filled it with flox before glassing. PFA cleared my mod on this basis, Hope this helps Dave Simpson -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Cole Date: 17 April 1999 10:07 Subject: Lyndhurst Touchdown Services fuel level indicator - PFA requirements >Please can anyone help, I am new to the game of clearing mods with the >PFA. I want to fit the LTS 9-step fuel level indicator, as described by >Jim Naylor in Europa Flyer no 19. I've got the unit but LTS is currently >closed to next week and I can't contact Jim. As a result I've drawn a >blank at the PFA. > >1. Does anyone have the PFA mod number for this installation? > >2. Can anyone confirm that the PFA accept a total of four (two either >side) layers of bid to re-inforce the 2 1/2 inch diameter access hole? >The hole will be just inboard of the left headrest. ( The main hole in >the tank itself will be 1 1/2 inch dia.) > >I'm ready to put the tank into the cockpit module - a very slow build- >but can't move until I' m sure of the facts. > >Gerry Cole , no 121, gccole13@cwcom.net > > From michael.cheshire@gte.net Sun Apr 18 18:04:28 1999 Subject: Child Seat Question Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:04:28 From: Michael Cheshire About myself, I am a long-time aviation enthusiast who has been slowly working toward my private pilot's license. I should finish this summer. I hope, fervently, to begin building an aircraft in the next year and the Europa is at the top of my list. Again, any info is greatly appreciated. the builders. Europa would contact me. list. Again, any info is greatly appreciated. From DaveBuzz@aol.com Mon Apr 19 02:59:05 1999 Subject: Re: TP12 tailplane access Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 02:59:05 From: DaveBuzz@aol.com Nigel, << > No, Dave you won't be shot down in flames, cos we're all at Sun & Fun. Watching > Gernot cook us a superb barbecue, {{{{{:-)>>>> Graham S, Nigel, David, Gernot, Steve (new boy), Mark & Roger the gliding Targett, >> your not allowed to go off enjoying yourself, you've got a plane to build! dave From Carl@photos.prestel.co.uk Mon Apr 19 11:10:18 1999 Subject: Child Seats In Europas Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:10:18 From: Carl Michael Cheshire wrote: > > I am interested in building a Europa but , as I have a 1 year old > child, I am reluctant to begin without some confirmation that it is > possible and safe to build a child seat in the baggage area. There is absolutely no reason why it should not be technically possible to fit a child seat in the Europa baggage area (presumably we are talking XS version as opposed to MK 1), however you will almost certainly have to do a very careful assesment of the likely maximum all up weight your aircraft. Assuming you are an average builder, it is going to take you at least two years to complete your aircraft by which time "junior" will be three and weigh that much more (assuming that only one offspring is planned !). The Europa is many things but unfortunately not a family tourer. Of course if you and your co-pilot are relatively light people, then carrying a third passenger might be possible, though I am not sure what the legal (or insurance) position might be. Fot the answer to this question you would need to speak to Francis Donaldson (the great high priest at ther PFA). If Francis says it is OK then you might be in with a chance. Good luck, Carl Pattinson G-LABS From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Mon Apr 19 20:00:50 1999 Subject: Sanding Glass Flanges Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:00:50 From: Tony Renshaw Gidday, I want to sand the underside of a glass flange that was not protected with peel ply on one of my ailerons. I protected one side of the closeout foam core extension for one skin but not the other. After removing the closeout foam the area not peel plied was abraded but how much is the question? On initial abrasion I was able to remove all the blue residual styrofoam. A trouble light was excellent at highlighting the areas that needed more work. If you look very closely at the exposed flange it has a white residue all over it, except that it has a patchwork effect all through it which I can only presume is the top of the bubbles of foam, or put it another way, the "crater rims". The dilemna is that when you sand the white residue which must be my miroslurry, you get a white dust residue. When you sand glass skin you get the same residue! Should I sand the flange until no more whitish microslurry remains, but thats all, or should I remove all the blue styrofoam, apply acetone to thoroughly remove foam remnants and abrade the top of the white residue for closeout bonding? In other words should I leave it there or take it away. A further anxiety exists in that the 1st ply of cloth of the applicable skin is completely translucent and I can't make out a fibre orientation. The top ply's fibres however are clearly discernable when looking through the flange from below. You could easily be tricked into thinking it isn't there, but I know it is! If I could see a fibre orientation of the 1st underside ply I would be confident in sanding down to the top of the fibres. Last thing I want to do is be a bit overexuberant and have my closeout displace the aileron as it should, but load only 1 skin, not2. Hypothetically you could get a failure of the intersection of skin and closeout and I don't want that. Better I ask these questions and be sure than not ask and doubt my project, I reckon. One thing I do know now is I will use peel ply ontop of any foam that is to be removed later. I now have some peel ply that is very thin in comparison to the Europa type. Any help would be appreciated. Reg Tony Renshaw Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From gccole13@cwcom.net Mon Apr 19 19:10:41 1999 Subject: Re: Lyndhurst Touchdown Services fuel level indicator - PFA requirements Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:10:41 From: Gerry Cole Dave, Thanks for your response, I'm due now to receive the relevant PFA data shortly. I'm proposing to use your edge method. The rule of thumb for reinforcement that you quoted gives four layers of bid on a one inch wide ring around a two and a half inch hole so I would imagine going to say one and a half inch wide would be ample. Thanks for your help, Gerry Cole From R.H.Mole@open.ac.uk Mon Apr 19 19:50:07 1999 Subject: WANTED Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:50:07 From: R.H.Mole@open.ac.uk Hi there, is there anyone on the list with a spare or unwanted VHF and/or transponder antenna produced by Bob Archer for composite aircraft (ie not requiring a ground plane) ? If so please email me privately R.H.Mole@open.ac.uk Thanks Richard From DonHuot@aol.com Mon Apr 19 16:31:34 1999 Subject: EUROPA FOR SALE Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:31:34 From: DonHuot@aol.com MUST SELL MY LOSS IS YOUR GAIN EUROPA N63EU Mono-wheel model Factory trailer is included NSI Subaru EA-81 100 HP Engine 86 hours total time 3 blade, Warp Drive Cockpit adjustable prop. VFR Panel Terra Radio and Transponder Fuel flow meter Navaid auto pilot Much more... THIS BEAUTIFUL AIRCRAFT IS OFFERED AT $ 40,000 FIRM This is over $ 22,000 less than my cost of the kits and other materials. I have over $ 62,000 and 2600 hours invested in the construction. I will consider selling this aircraft without the engine for $ 32,000 or the engine and prop withour the aircraft for $ 11,000. This aircraft was displayed at the EUROPA Booth at SUN-N-FUN and was displayed on the flight line at OSHKOSH. IF YOU SNOOZE, YOU LOOSE !!! Call Don at 404/843-3611 between 9A.M. and 6 P.M. ET Atlanta Georgia. From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Mon Apr 19 22:29:00 1999 Subject: Re: SP S'Fill 400 Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:29:00 From: Graham Singleton -----Original Message----- From: Jens Aabo Date: 09 April 1999 17:47 Subject: SP S'Fill 400 >SP systems are making a lightweight epoxy filler called S'Fill 400. SP >recommends to use this filler on top of the ampreg 20 lay-up and to achieve >the best finish SP Hibuild 302 primer is recommended. >Is their any of you who have used this combination on the Europa or planning >to do so!!!! Is it a good combination or is it too heavy? Yes, I used exactly that system on G-KWIP. It is OK as SP Hi build is a good epoxy primer. I would however use the Polifiber water based epoxy now, as its easier to apply and sands easy too. Don't use a polyester primer. Blistering due to osmosis is a probable result. Graham From dbosomworth@meto.gov.uk Mon Apr 19 23:54:51 1999 Subject: first flight for 'The Doghouse ' Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:54:51 From: Bosomworth Dave G-BXUM took flight this afternoon, in the extremely capable hands of Frank Chapman, from White Waltham (UK). Three hours flying done, flies superbly, all temps and pressures nicely in the green, ASI not calibrated yet but indicated stall figures 42kt flaps down, 48kt clean, 105kt at 5000rpm, 2000ft with a rotax 912 and warp drive set at 17 degs. Flying stopped at 1900 coz i inconveniently had to come in to work! Got to thank lots of people, some not on the 'net, some of you are, for help, advice and encouragement. could'nt stop grinning all afternoon. knew there was a good reason i could'nt go to sun n fun, nigel! deliriously happy ;-))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) chus, dave kit67 G-BXUM 'The Doghouse' alias davebuzz@aol.com From nigelgraham@mentorg.com Tue Apr 20 11:29:26 1999 Subject: Re: first flight for 'The Doghouse ' Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 11:29:26 From: Nigel Graham Dave, Congratulations! NOTHING can be better than the joy of watching your own homebuild take to the air for the first time................ ........but barbecuing fresh lobsters by the poolside, with six of your Europa building buddies helping you knock back the champange at Sun n Fun must come a pretty close second! Happy flying Nigel (PS...not a bad menu suggestion for the post Europa AGM barbi at Cranfield this year!) "Bosomworth, Dave" wrote: >G-BXUM took flight this afternoon, in the extremely capable hands of Frank >Chapman, from White Waltham (UK). >knew there was a good reason i could'nt go to sun n fun, nigel! > From johnwigney@worldnet.att.net Tue Apr 20 10:09:44 1999 Subject: Navaid servo on rudder !? Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 10:09:44 From: John Wigney Had a great time at Sun N Fun. Picked up lots of info. Didn't spend too much money but picked up lots of brochures on things that will leave me a lot poorer as the job progresses. Worked with lots of great folks on the stand and met a lot of other builders, Bob, Michelle, Heather, Obergruppenfuhrer Ed, Keith, Sandy, Jim, Russell, Bill, Jimmy, Augustine, Steve, Don, a lot of Brits, - Graham, Jon, Terry, plus many others whose names my brain has already let slip. I plan to fit a Navaid autopilot to my Europa and understand that the conventional wisdom is to mount the servo in the cockpit to the side of the base of the control column with connection to CS02 for aileron control. I noted that people who have flown the Europa commented that the rudder control in the cruise without ailerons is perfectly adequate for normal directional control. (I think it may have been a slight exaggeration when I heard that one can do a 90 degree bank on the rudder.) This begs a question - would there be any downside to mounting the Navaid servo to drive the rudder instead of the ailerons ? I have not figured exactly where to mount this yet but if I use the intermediate rudder bellcrank setup, I think this may provide a less crowded location. Does anyone have any comments ? Cheers, John, A099 From Carl@photos.prestel.co.uk Tue Apr 20 17:44:52 1999 Subject: Re: Navaid servo on rudder !? Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:44:52 From: Carl John Wigney wrote: > > I plan to fit a Navaid autopilot to my Europa and understand that the > conventional wisdom is to mount the servo in the cockpit to the side of > the base of the control column with connection to CS02 for aileron > control. I noted that people who have flown the Europa commented that > the rudder control in the cruise without ailerons is perfectly adequate > for normal directional control. > My brief experience with flying the Europa (or for that matter any other aircraft) is totally opposite to what you are saying. Directional control can be achieved by using the ailerons alone without rudder, but using the rudder on its own will simply make the aircraft yaw (the aircrafts heading will not change significantly - the nose will simply point in a different direction). Perhaps those with more experience in Europa driving could comment. I distinctly remember Ivan saying to me during my demo flight that I should take my feet off the rudder pedals (after takeoff) and fly the aircraft usinge ailerons. Admittedly he said this partly because I have long legs and this meant that I could stretch my legs better by placing them over the rudder pedals and resting against the footwell base !!! THe ailerons certainly gave all the directional control that one could want without assistance from rudders. Ivan also mentioned that had I been a Cessna pilot, I probably would not have known what the rudder pedals did anyway !!!! Carl Pattinson G_LABS From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Tue Apr 20 22:51:14 1999 Subject: Re: Navaid servo on rudder !? Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:51:14 From: Graham Singleton -----Original Message----- From: John Wigney >I plan to fit a Navaid autopilot to my Europa and understand that the >conventional wisdom is to mount the servo in the cockpit to the side of >the base of the control column with connection to CS02 for aileron >control. I noted that people who have flown the Europa commented that >the rudder control in the cruise without ailerons is perfectly adequate >for normal directional control. (I think it may have been a slight >exaggeration when I heard that one can do a 90 degree bank on the >rudder.) This begs a question - would there be any downside to mounting >the Navaid servo to drive the rudder instead of the ailerons ? I have >not figured exactly where to mount this yet but if I use the >intermediate rudder bellcrank setup, I think this may provide a less >crowded location. Does anyone have any comments ? Hi John, nice to meet you, I would stick with the conventional installation. You need easy access to adjust the clutch initially. There's plenty of room in front of the thigh rest. Graham From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Tue Apr 20 22:45:57 1999 Subject: Re: first flight for 'The Doghouse ' Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:45:57 From: Graham Singleton -----Original Message----- From: Nigel Graham Date: 20 April 1999 11:23 Subject: Re: first flight for 'The Doghouse ' > ........but barbecuing fresh lobsters by the poolside, with six of your Europa >building buddies helping you knock back the champange at Sun n Fun must come a >pretty close second! > Happy flying > Nigel > >(PS...not a bad menu suggestion for the post Europa AGM barbi at Cranfield this >year!) IF we can pursuade Gernot to officiate! Welcome to the tribe Dave! Graham From aviatordave@fuse.net Wed Apr 21 01:12:41 1999 Subject: Navaid Servo on Rudder !? Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 01:12:41 From: aviatordave@fuse.net John, Don't put the servo on the rudder. Pecking order on autopilots is: 1. Roll... ie keep the wings level, or gentle turns to track a heading or course. By controlling the roll of the airplane it is hard to get in too much trouble. You know... keep the clean side up & the dirty side down. 2. Pitch (airspeed & vertical rates). 3. Yaw (only need to keep maneuvers coordinated). Airplanes turn because the wings are banked (aileron). Rudder is used to coordinate the turn. From level flight you can step on the rudder and get a yaw induced bank... but it won't be coordinated. For many reasons, the navaid servo must not be hooked up to the rudder. I'm sure Navaid would not approve of their "wing leveler" being hooked up to the rudder. It wasn't designed for that. Good try though. Keep up the original thought! Dave Conrad, A078, Cincinnati, Ohio From ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk Thu Apr 22 08:49:46 1999 Subject: Attention John J.Moran Re:- Spare Mkl Cowls. Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:49:46 From: Plantragg Developments I recently e-mailed you about a set of Mkl cowls which I have for sale. a) Did you get the message ? b) Are you interested ? since Dale is over at the factory today and could make arrangements for the cowl set to come back to the US with his kit ? Regards BOB HARRISON 337 G-PTAG e-mail:- ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk From aviatordave@fuse.net Thu Apr 22 09:37:47 1999 Subject: Sun 'N Fun Debrief? Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:37:47 From: aviatordave@fuse.net Dear Europals, Anybody out there is cyberspace willing to share what went on at Sun 'N Fun?\ Any gotcha's or things that need to be transmitted to the troops? Enquiring minds want to know! Thanks, Dave Conrad, A078, Cincinnati From johnwigney@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 22 15:21:29 1999 Subject: Response re Navaid on rudder Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:21:29 From: John Wigney To all who responded to my query, Many thanks for your input on my Navaid idea which turned out to be a flamer. The unanimous response was not to mess with the idea of putting the servo on the rudder. I will now figure out how to squeeze it in in front of the thigh rest. Thanks again. Cheers, John, A099 From pma@obtero.net Thu Apr 22 18:11:33 1999 Subject: Mass Balance Wieghts Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 18:11:33 From: Paul McAllister Hi all, I am about to do my mass balance weights for my XS ailerons. Does anyone have any special tips or cautions to share ? Thanks Paul McAllister 363 Builders log http://pma.obtero.net From johnwigney@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 22 20:15:20 1999 Subject: Re: Mass Balance Wieghts Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 20:15:20 From: John Wigney Paul, I don't know if you have your wings yet but if you do not have them, I advise that you put the ailerons to one side and wait until you have installed the wing boxes, then fit the weights accordingly using dummy templates initially. My experience has been that the instructions as per the manual would have resulted in weights which might have fitted at zero deflection but which would give substantial interference at the required down deflection. I don't know why that is, I seem to remember a suggestion that the instructions are a hangover from the Classic Europa. Also, by leaving the job until the boxes are on, you can ensure a precise fit in the plan view. Happy building. Cheers, John, A099 Paul McAllister wrote: > > Hi all, I am about to do my mass balance weights for my XS ailerons. Does > anyone have any special tips or cautions to share ? Thanks > > Paul McAllister 363 > Builders log http://pma.obtero.net > From johnwigney@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 22 21:13:14 1999 Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Debrief? Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 21:13:14 From: John Wigney Dave, No gotchas that I am aware of. However, talked with Graham Singleton on subject of intermediate rudder bellcrank setup which he aftermarkets ---From the UK for XS kits. Rationale behind this item is the worst case of two pilots leaning on opposite rudder pedals in an emergency situation. Direct loads onto rudder horn and rudder hinges for this scenario can be very high (not sure but I think I remember + 400 lbs). Graham's mod puts in a bellcrank and mount ahead of the rudder which I understand is similar to the Classic Europa. This bellcrank takes these potential high loads off the rudder. A tip I picked up is not to put the XS fuselage top on until you have fitted just about everything including the flap linkage, etc. Shown in the tent were 2 props #1 was the Whirlwind 2 blade, VP, hydraulic. This prop is very light, ~9 lbs. Catch 22 on this combo for the 912/914/912S engine is that the mounting pad for a hydraulic governor is the same as the pad for a vacuum pump. Therefore no vacuum instruments - electric instruments only. No info on performance of this prop on a Europa. I do not believe it has been flown yet. #2 was the electric Airmaster AP308 VP prop by Aero Trading Ltd. from New Zealand. See << http://www.propellor.com/ >> Offered with 3 blade Warp Drive or their own prop at same price, $3,800, with manual select of speed range. Additional auto controller is available at $650. This prop has been evaluated on the Lakeland demonstrator which apparently had some turbo problems during the testing work. Anyway, published results for 5,500 ft show as follows (hope the tabs transmit OK) ThrottleRPM Fixed kts Variable kts Increase 100% 5800 122 123 +1 60% 5500 119 124 +5 55% 4800 103 121 +18 40% 4200 94 112 +18 Quote from Airmaster flyer "From the test results, there appears to be no significant increase in top speed. The greatest gain is at 55% throttle with the same speed obtained as at full throttle fixed pitch resulting in a 33% fuel saving." A lot of focus was given by the Europa staff on the new motor glider which by all accounts performs very nicely. Hope is to show plane?/wings? at Oshkosh. I heard preliminary talk on forming an East Coast builders' group a la Kim Prout in CA. Nothing definite yet. Anybody else ? Cheers, John, A099 aviatordave@fuse.net wrote: > > Dear Europals, > Anybody out there is cyberspace willing to share what went on at Sun > 'N Fun?\ > Any gotcha's or things that need to be transmitted to the troops? > Enquiring minds want to know! > Thanks, > Dave Conrad, A078, Cincinnati > From jerry@flyinghi.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 23 08:18:45 1999 Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Debrief? Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 08:18:45 From: Jerry I do not believe a fuel saving of 33% is possible! ---From all my experience fuel burn is almost exactly related to air speed. It takes a certain hp to drag a Europa through the air at a certain speed. This hp can be achieved at high rpm low throttle or low rpm high throttle but the hp remains the same. The only difference therefor is a slight change in efficiency of the prop which is likely to be maybe 1 or 2%. A reduction in rpm of 33% does not lead to the same saving in fuel consumption as throttle settings are higher. I am ready to be proved wrong and am prepared to lend for two weeks a fuel flow meter to anybody who wants to make the appropriate tests. Jerry Flying Hi - Wish I was jerry@flyinghi.demon.co.uk http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown -----Original Message----- From: John Wigney Date: 23 April 1999 02:14 Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Debrief? >Dave, > >No gotchas that I am aware of. However, talked with Graham Singleton on >subject of intermediate rudder bellcrank setup which he aftermarkets >from the UK for XS kits. Rationale behind this item is the worst case of >two pilots leaning on opposite rudder pedals in an emergency situation. >Direct loads onto rudder horn and rudder hinges for this scenario can be >very high (not sure but I think I remember + 400 lbs). Graham's mod puts >in a bellcrank and mount ahead of the rudder which I understand is >similar to the Classic Europa. This bellcrank takes these potential high >loads off the rudder. > >A tip I picked up is not to put the XS fuselage top on until you have >fitted just about everything including the flap linkage, etc. > >Shown in the tent were 2 props >#1 was the Whirlwind 2 blade, VP, hydraulic. This prop is very light, ~9 >lbs. Catch 22 on this combo for the 912/914/912S engine is that the >mounting pad for a hydraulic governor is the same as the pad for a >vacuum pump. Therefore no vacuum instruments - electric instruments >only. No info on performance of this prop on a Europa. I do not believe >it has been flown yet. > >#2 was the electric Airmaster AP308 VP prop by Aero Trading Ltd. from >New Zealand. >See << http://www.propellor.com/ >> >Offered with 3 blade Warp Drive or their own prop at same price, $3,800, >with manual select of speed range. Additional auto controller is >available at $650. >This prop has been evaluated on the Lakeland demonstrator which >apparently had some turbo problems during the testing work. Anyway, >published results for 5,500 ft show as follows (hope the tabs transmit >OK) > >ThrottleRPM Fixed kts Variable kts Increase >100% 5800 122 123 +1 >60% 5500 119 124 +5 >55% 4800 103 121 +18 >40% 4200 94 112 +18 >Quote from Airmaster flyer "From the test results, there appears to be >no significant increase in top speed. The greatest gain is at 55% >throttle with the same speed obtained as at full throttle fixed pitch >resulting in a 33% fuel saving." > >A lot of focus was given by the Europa staff on the new motor glider >which by all accounts performs very nicely. Hope is to show >plane?/wings? at Oshkosh. > >I heard preliminary talk on forming an East Coast builders' group a la >Kim Prout in CA. Nothing definite yet. > >Anybody else ? > >Cheers, John, A099 > > >aviatordave@fuse.net wrote: >> >> Dear Europals, >> Anybody out there is cyberspace willing to share what went on at Sun >> 'N Fun?\ >> Any gotcha's or things that need to be transmitted to the troops? >> Enquiring minds want to know! >> Thanks, >> Dave Conrad, A078, Cincinnati >> From Mijill999@aol.com Fri Apr 23 05:05:54 1999 Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Debrief? Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 05:05:54 From: Mijill999@aol.com aviatordave@fuse.net Have to agree with Jerry regarding fuel savings with a VP prop.We fitted the NSI prop last year and fuel consumption appears to have increased slightly! We do fly a little faster however. The greatest single advantage of the new prop is the significant increase in available power at take off. I am quite sure more aircraft are bent as a result of being underpowered than overpowered,if that is possible.! Mike Smith Europa 39... From hlindsay@NMSU.Edu Fri Apr 23 11:19:29 1999 Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Debrief? Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 11:19:29 From: Lindsay > >Shown in the tent were 2 props >#1 was the Whirlwind 2 blade, VP, hydraulic.......No info on performance of this prop on a Europa. I do not believe >it has been flown yet. Might add that the cost of this prop is not insignificant! Whirlwind is quoting $4,500 for the prop, and the required governor will run you an additional $1,000 to $1,500, depending upon your choice of governor and the source from which you obtain it. It's a beautiful piece of equipment. According to Whirlwind, it had been "successfully" run in a test cell for the past two months or so, on both a 912 and a 914 (I believe he said) and, as you are reading this, it should be on its way back to California. Prop is to be installed on Kim's airplane for actual flight testing, which should begin in the next few weeks. If you can afford it...and it works...it will be an attractive option for the "rich and famous." > >#2 was the electric Airmaster AP308 VP prop by Aero Trading Ltd. from >New Zealand. I had the pleasure of flying behind this prop, and it is a very nice piece of hardware. Again...not cheap! Since Sun 'n Fun ended, a different set of blades has been installed on the same hub, and those blades were first flown earlier thismorning. The intent of the new blades, as I recall, is to optimize top-end performance without sacrificing its already impressive cruise/economy. I'm sure you will be hearing more about this propeller in the not too distant future. A third propeller is being test flown on the tri-gear, and, according to Bob and Lee, the initial impressions are quite favorable. An previous and lesser pitched version of that propeller, a Prince two-blade, fixed pitch, P-tip, has been flown on the tri-gear with pleasing results. Unfortunately, the "new" prop, with an additional two inches of pitch, was not installed in sufficient time to permit it being flown prior to the show. It did attract considerable attention while on static display at the show. I'm sure you'll be hearing more about this particular propeller. At first glance, the two blades do look a bit unusual on a Europa. The prop itself is a beautiful piece of workmanship, and it will offer yet another option to those of us who are "budget builders." John...what a pleasure renewing your acquaintance and working with you at Sun 'n Fun. Missed you the last couple of days. -Ed Lindsay- From JohnJMoran@aol.com Sat Apr 24 10:18:41 1999 Subject: Muffler Hanger Notes Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 10:18:41 From: JohnJMoran@aol.com There have been several notes suggesting a hanger to support the rear of the muffler on the Mk 1 would reduce the possibility of cracking the J pipes. In making this hanger I found that it took longer to work out the details than to actually fabricate it. The result is given here in an attempt to save others some time. The material for the hanger was ordered from Aircraft Spruce: 4130 strip, 5/8 by 36 inches, .040 thick, cost 89 cents. Stainless would be preferred, but wasn't found in the catalog. (File the edges of this strip - they're very sharp as received.) The other materials were leftovers and scraps found in the junk box. The distance between the lower engine mount cross tube and the muffler is about 12cm on my Mk 1 - adjust the length of the hanger strip to accommodate production variations. To make the muffler clamp bend the strip 90 degrees at 3cm from the end. Form the strip to fit around the rear chamber of the muffler, with the bent end at top center. Use scraps of 1/8 in thick silicone baffle material to space the clamp away from the muffler at each side, plus center top and bottom. Mark the strip so that there is enough material for a matching 3cm 90 degree bend on the other end with about 1/8 inch space between these 3cm sections. Cut the strip and bend this end so that it is parallel to the previously bent end. Drill 2 holes with a #10 bit in these 3cm ends, the first as close as possible to the band around the muffler while allowing access to the bolt head for tightening, the second close to the end of the strip, clear of the first bolt head and with space so the second bolt head doesn't extend beyond the end of the strip. Bolt this clamp onto the muffler at about the center of the rear chamber using the bolt holes closest to the muffler. Include the 1/8 silicone to provide some cushioning and thermal isolation. Leave an opening of about 2mm between the 3cm sections. Construct a large cushioned "P" clamp by bending the remaining section of strip 100 degrees or so, 2cm from the end. Use a piece of material left over ---From trimming the fuel filler hose; a piece about 3cm wide is fine, cut an arc of it so that it wraps completely around the lower cross tube of the Mk 1 engine mount -- this forms the cushion. Wrap the strip around this cushion; this is most easily done using a piece of pipe clamped in a vise since it's awkward to do in place on the aircraft. Leave about a 1/4 inch space between the parts of the "P" clamp through which the bolt will pass. Once the "P" clamp is formed, cut the strip so that the ends match and drill it approximately centered in the 2cm section, mark the other side to allow the bolt through and drill it too. Round the corners of the straight section of the "P" clip to make it easier to insert into the hose (below). Use a 3 inch long section of 1/2 in id hose - a leftover from the oil hose - as the vibration isolater. Drill a 1/4 inch hole 1.5cm from the end. Push this over the straight end of the "P" clamp until the holes line up and push a # 3 bolt (with washer) through temporarily. Drill the other end of the hose at 90 degrees to this bolt. Drill the remaining piece of strip 1 cm ---From the end and round the corners; push this into the hose and bolt with a # 3 -- this strip will line up with the ends of the muffler clamp to allow through bolting. Mount the "P" clip in the center of the lower cross tube. Install the muffler temporarily with the clamp in place. Adjust the position of the clamp fore or aft to ensure that it clears the rudder cross tubes. Position the protruding section of strip so that it fits between the 3cm upward pointing parts of the muffler clamp. The end of the strip must be trimmed to fit so that it is long enough to allow drilling to match the upper hole in the 3cm section and short enough so it doesn't hit the lower bolt - a bit awkward because the end of the strip is in the way, may require a couple of trials to trim slowly to the right length. Once the final section of strip is trimmed, with the muffler pushed upward to its desired position, hold the strip hanger between the 3cm ends and mark through the upper hole onto the hanger strip and drill the hole. The bolt through this hole connects the "P" clip/isolater/hanger strip to the muffler clamp; use a stainless bolt here if possible to simplify future maintenance; tighten until the strip is securely clamped to the 3cm sections. Remove the hanger and clamp; paint all steel parts with high temperature paint, then re-assemble. About 3 inches of the original 36 in strip will be left over for inclusion in your scrap box. As usual, there is a question: is the rear muffler temperature low enough that the silicone will survive or will folded fiberglass cushions be needed instead? Comments ? John A044 Newtown, CT From BRYNALL@aol.com Sat Apr 24 15:54:08 1999 Subject: Re: Mass Balance Wieghts Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:54:08 From: BRYNALL@aol.com balance arms on the XS. I hope you find it useful. shown on page 7-17, need to be viewed with caution. template shown as a guide for the arm's profile. would not know. fouling the top of that box. Happy building=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6Bryan Allsop =E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6.360.UK From jstoutemyer@fuse.net Sat Apr 24 17:21:10 1999 Subject: Trimble/Terra & Mate-N-Lok Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 17:21:10 From: James R. Stoutemyer FYI for anyone interested in the continuing saga of Terra avionics, the following item appeared in May 1999 issue of IFR magazine. "TRIMBLE BAILOUT DUE TO WEAK MARKETING AND DISTRIBUTION Trimbles's decision to bail out of the light airplane GA avionics market was due to a weak distribution and marketing network, according to Trimble CEO Bradford Parkinson. Interviewed by Aerospace Daily, Parkinson said Trimble was happy with it's re-engineering of the Terraline, which it bought in 1996, but lacked money to market the equipment and losses were mounting. Trimble is still looking for a buyer for it's light GA line and says it will remain in the airline market." FWIW, although AMP Mate-N-Lok II connectors have many plus features which make them an excellent choice for use in homebuilt aircraft, builders need to be aware that AMP spec data for this particular series specifies durability at 50 cycles, mating and unmating. No problem for low count cycle applications, but it does raise a long term reliability issue for high count cycle applications such as wing to fuselage disconnects for trailered Europas where wings are mated/demated repeatedly. Anyone with in-service problems in this regard or other type connectors you are using? Avioniker Jim From behoppe@worldaccessnet.com Sat Apr 24 23:34:40 1999 Subject: Re: Trimble/Terra & Mate-N-Lok Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 23:34:40 From: Eric Hoppe A word of warning.... I just inherited a Trimble Flightmate pro GPS and have had nothing but problems trying to get any info/support/accessories from the manufacturer. I actually sent them money for a manual and after receiving an obvious PHOTOCOPY of the original for 35 bucks (it was the wrong manual) the reps told me I would be lucky to get the money back. If it were not for the fantastic generosity of subscribers to this newsletter (thanks Peter L.!!) I still would not have a manual. I have spent way too many precious minutes of my day on hold, being forwarded from one person to another only to end up on someones voicemail to give any merit to the validity of the company. I actually asked one of the ladies if the comapny was about to go out of business since their customer service was so poor. The GPS works great. My only point is I would never buy anything (especially an avionics stack) from a company such as this. Just my two cents that might cause someone to call the customer service before they buy to see what the future might be like. Happy flying! ---ehops -----Original Message----- From: James R. Stoutemyer Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 2:22 PM Subject: Trimble/Terra & Mate-N-Lok >FYI for anyone interested in the continuing saga of Terra avionics, the >following item appeared in May 1999 issue of IFR magazine. > >"TRIMBLE BAILOUT DUE TO WEAK MARKETING AND DISTRIBUTION >Trimbles's decision to bail out of the light airplane GA avionics market >was due to a weak distribution and marketing network, according to >Trimble CEO Bradford Parkinson. Interviewed by Aerospace Daily, >Parkinson said Trimble was happy with it's re-engineering of the >Terraline, which it bought in 1996, but lacked money to market the >equipment and losses were mounting. Trimble is still looking for a >buyer for it's light GA line and says it will remain in the airline >market." > >FWIW, although AMP Mate-N-Lok II connectors have many plus features >which make them an excellent choice for use in homebuilt aircraft, >builders need to be aware that AMP spec data for this particular series >specifies durability at 50 cycles, mating and unmating. No problem for >low count cycle applications, but it does raise a long term reliability >issue for high count cycle applications such as wing to fuselage >disconnects for trailered Europas where wings are mated/demated >repeatedly. Anyone with in-service problems in this regard or other >type connectors you are using? > >Avioniker Jim > From VP4SkyDoc@aol.com Sun Apr 25 04:13:30 1999 Subject: Europa's vs. Women Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 04:13:30 From: VP4SkyDoc@aol.com A Europa will kill you quick . . . a woman takes her time. Europas like to do it inverted. Europas can be turned on by a flick of a switch. A Europa does not get mad if you 'touch and go.' A Europa does not object to a preflight inspection. Europas come with manuals. Europas have strict weight and balance limits. You can fly a Europa any time of the month. Europas don't have parents. Europas don't whine unless something is really wrong. Europas don't care about how many other airplanes you have flown. When flying, you and your Europa both arrive at the same time. Europas don't mind if you look at other airplanes, or if you buy airplane magazines. If your Europa is too loose, you can tighten it. It's always OK to use tie downs on your Europa. :-) From 101613.3377@compuserve.com Sun Apr 25 13:44:38 1999 Subject: new Rotax service bulletin Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 13:44:38 From: Klaus Dietrich <101613.3377@compuserve.com> I have just downloaded the new service bulletin from March 99 (SB-912 026/E) from the Rotax user homepage. It's about the replacement of the stator assembly. It's behind the flywheel/magneto at the rear of the engine. All 912 and 914 engines are concerned and Rotax is supplying the parts free of charge. It shouild be possible to do the exchange with the engine installed.....at least that's what I hope. Anyone planning to do this exchange in the near future and any "insider tips" how to do it the "easy way"?? Klaus From breitenbach.dentaltechnik@tonline.de Mon Apr 19 09:36:36 1999 Subject: Re: Child Seat Question Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:36:36 From: Thomas Breitenbach > DIESE NACHRICHT IST IN MIME-FORMAT. Da Ihr Mailreader dieses Format nicht untersttzt, knnte diese Nachricht ganz oder teilweise unlesbar sein. --MS_Mac_OE_3007359396_81435_MIME_Part ask Mr. Jens Gralfs at Dasa/Hamburg (Sorry, but I don=B4t have the email adress). He is a user of this newsgroup and has integrated a childseat in his Europa. ---------- Von: "Michael Cheshire" An: Betreff: Child Seat Question Datum: Mon, 19. Apr 1999 1:04 Uhr I am interested in building a Europa but , as I have a 1 year old child, I am reluctant to begin without some confirmation that it is possible and safe to build a child seat in the baggage area. Andy Draper, technical manager at Europa, was unable to provide me with any information but recommended that I post a note here to check with the builders. So...I would greatly appreciate it if anyone that has built or is building a child seat for their Europa would contact me. About myself, I am a long-time aviation enthusiast who has been slowly working toward my private pilot's license. I should finish this summer. I hope, fervently, to begin building an aircraft in the next year and the Europa is at the top of my list. Again, any info is greatly appreciated. --MS_Mac_OE_3007359396_81435_MIME_Part Re: Child Seat Question ask Mr. Jens Gralfs at Dasa/Hamburg (Sorry, but I don=B4t have the email adress). He is a user of this newsgroup and has integrated a childseat in his Europa. ---------- Von: Michael Cheshire michael.cheshire@gte.net An: europa@avnet.co.uk Betreff: Child Seat Question Datum: Mon, 19. Apr 1999 1:04 Uhr I am interested in building a Europa but , as I have a 1 year old child, I am reluctant to begin without some confirmation that it is possible and safe to build a child seat in the baggage area. Andy Draper, technical manager at Europa, was unable to provide me with any information but recommended that I post a note here to check with the builders. So...I would greatly appreciate it if anyone that has built or is building a child seat for their Europa would contact me. About myself, I am a long-time aviation enthusiast who has been slowly working toward my private pilot's license. I should finish this summer. I hope, fervently, to begin building an aircraft in the next year and the Europa is at the top of my list. Again, any info is greatly appreciated. --MS_Mac_OE_3007359396_81435_MIME_Part-- From ETC.ETCICH@mesmtpse.ericsson.se Mon Apr 19 09:36:36 1999 Subject: VPxs Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:36:36 From: IAN CHAPLIN --- Received from ETC.ETCICH 6438 5588X4907 99-04-24 10:12 Hi Does anybody have any advice and experience on choice of VP prop for a 914 engined XS. I am getting to the stage of what to choose, fixed or VP. One concern I have is how heavy the VP unit is and any effect on W+B. Anyone any ideas?? Best Wishes Ian Chaplin ---- 99-04-24 10:12 ---- Sent to --------------------------- -> europa(a)avnet.co.uk From ferdinand.verveckken@ping.be Thu Apr 22 23:10:18 1999 Subject: RE: Child Seat Question Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 23:10:18 From: ferdinand verveckken I know of one Europa flying with a childs' seat. Built in Germany by Jens and Julia Gralfs. I believe it's registered as D-EJJG. However they finished the airplane before starting the family project. They wrote it added considerably to the time needed and to the complexity of the plane. Nand, Europa 226 From ktallent@ns1.avnet.co.uk Sun Apr 25 22:58:35 1999 Subject: Corrosion Proofing Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 22:58:35 From: Keith Tallent Miles/All I'm just starting out but would like to get things right from the outset. Do you use the Alodine treatment and then coat it with the Zinc Chromate/Oxide or are these treatments for alternatives? Is there a definitive list of what parts require what treatment? Can Zinc Oxide spray be used instead of the nasty sounding Zinc Chromate? Aircraft Spruce list "Improved Metal Prep No.79" as the precleaning agent to use with Alodine No.1201, any reason you didn't use this? What did you use on the inside of the pushrods etc? regards Keith Tallent G-SAMY Kit No 221 -----Original Message----- From: Miles McCallum Date: 31 December 1998 10:07 Subject: RE: Corrosion Proofing >As it happens, exactly what I am up to currently: I'm trying to do all the >bits I can before getting back to the resin, glass, and grinder. > >IMHO there is only one scheme: > >1/ acid wash (I use aircraft coverings/Stits stuff) - otherwise the >next stage is unreliable -use a brush and scotchbrite pads to make sure >every bit is properly cleaned. > >2/ Alodyne wash -a chemical surface conversion to aluminium oxide -much >like anodising, which does the same job, but costs more. available in clear >or brown/gold (easier to see if you have good coverage) > >3/ Zinc chromate epoxy on all external bits, or those requiring to be >bonded. > >4/ spray can Zinc chromate for internal/ non bonded bits, and any >steel bits -easy to retouch. > >5/ colour coats for anything you want to look pretty- pref 2 pack >polyurathane. epoxy goes dusty after a few years. > >You can get away without zinc chromate on bonded bits, but resin on >untreated ali will always delaminate in time. > > Zinc chromate is carcinogenic, so use a good carbon filter mask at least. > >all the best, > >Miles > > From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Mon Apr 26 00:22:35 1999 Subject: Re: new Rotax service bulletin Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 00:22:35 From: Graham Singleton >I have just downloaded the new service bulletin from March 99 (SB-912 >026/E) from the Rotax user homepage. It's about the replacement of the >stator assembly. . It shouild be possible to do the exchange with the >engine installed.....at least that's what I hope. >Anyone planning to do this exchange in the near future and any "insider >tips" how to do it the "easy way"?? >Klaus My understanding is that Rotax insist that an approved person does the exchange, in UK at least. It is possible to do it in situ but is not easy. Several hours work. If you are unlucky and there is any corrosion in there, (there was with ours, possibly due to coolant over splash) it will be impossible in situ. Seeing what is involved I would be happier doing the job with the engine out, then you know that it goes back correctly. Graham From tonyk@kaon.co.nz Mon Apr 26 12:30:07 1999 Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 12:30:07 From: Tony Krzyzewski I would do both especially if you live in a maritime climate. Alodine and then Zinc Chromate or Oxide. Oxide is nicer on you and the Earth. You use alumiprep or some other phosphoric etch before Alodine to remove the oxide off the surface prior to the Alodining process. The Zinc Chromate/Oxide while it may seem to duplicate the Alodining process does act as a good paint primer. I used a thinned coat of Zinc Chromate to line my control rods - takes ages to dry though! Tony >Miles/All > >I'm just starting out but would like to get things right from the outset. > >Do you use the Alodine treatment and then coat it with the Zinc >Chromate/Oxide or are these treatments for alternatives? > >Is there a definitive list of what parts require what treatment? > >Can Zinc Oxide spray be used instead of the nasty sounding Zinc Chromate? > >Aircraft Spruce list "Improved Metal Prep No.79" as the precleaning agent to >use with Alodine No.1201, any reason you didn't use this? > >What did you use on the inside of the pushrods etc? > > >regards > >Keith Tallent >G-SAMY >Kit No 221 >-----Original Message----- From: Miles McCallum >Date: 31 December 1998 10:07 >Subject: RE: Corrosion Proofing > > >>As it happens, exactly what I am up to currently: I'm trying to do all the >>bits I can before getting back to the resin, glass, and grinder. >> >>IMHO there is only one scheme: >> >>1/ acid wash (I use aircraft coverings/Stits stuff) - otherwise the >>next stage is unreliable -use a brush and scotchbrite pads to make sure >>every bit is properly cleaned. >> >>2/ Alodyne wash -a chemical surface conversion to aluminium >oxide -much >>like anodising, which does the same job, but costs more. available in clear >>or brown/gold (easier to see if you have good coverage) >> >>3/ Zinc chromate epoxy on all external bits, or those requiring to be >>bonded. >> >>4/ spray can Zinc chromate for internal/ non bonded bits, and any >>steel bits -easy to retouch. >> >>5/ colour coats for anything you want to look pretty- pref 2 pack >>polyurathane. epoxy goes dusty after a few years. >> >>You can get away without zinc chromate on bonded bits, but resin on >>untreated ali will always delaminate in time. >> >> Zinc chromate is carcinogenic, so use a good carbon filter mask at least. >> >>all the best, >> >>Miles >> >> > From VP4SkyDoc@aol.com Sun Apr 25 23:25:06 1999 Subject: Re: VP Props Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 23:25:06 From: VP4SkyDoc@aol.com Rob Waters sent me the following link. There you will find the builder of a very nice Pulsar using a 912. He does a nice write up on his opinions of the Arplast Eletrical VP that he uses with a lot of pictures and other information. Dave Leonard >Does anybody have any advice and experience on choice of VP prop >for a 914 engined XS. From gopack@sprintmail.com Sun Apr 25 23:31:53 1999 Subject: Trim tabs and beyond Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 23:31:53 From: Steve Genotte Dear ber Builders, I have a question which popped up as I fitted the port tailplane to its respective stabilator. How much the clearance between the aforementioned parts will be reduced once the tab is filled? Assuming it will change enough to require some additional sanding, is it OK to wait until the tab is filled and sanded before readjusting the clearance or should I take some extra off now? Sorry for such a basic query. I hope to have something more challenging in the future. Steve "Too tired to put in a funny middle name" Genotte XS A126 From VP4SkyDoc@aol.com Mon Apr 26 00:52:54 1999 Subject: Re: Re: VP Props Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 00:52:54 From: VP4SkyDoc@aol.com OOps, forgot to paste the link, here it is: http://www.graceba.net/~billings/ I know you are looking for more specifics about installation in the Europa, sorry I cant help there. > Rob Waters sent me the following link. There you will find the builder of a > very nice Pulsar using a 912. He does a nice write up on his opinions of > the > Arplast Eletrical VP that he uses with a lot of pictures and other > information. > > Dave Leonard From gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Mon Apr 26 08:47:15 1999 Subject: Fuel System Information Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:47:15 From: Gerry Holland To all. I'm back from the ex-colony. Poorer but happy! Please find located at: ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/fuelsys.pdf This PDF file gives details of the Fuel system 'covered' by Nigel Charles a week or two ago. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to View and Print. The Reader can be downloaded from their Website at: http://www.adobe.com You may also find it on 'magazine' give-away PC CD's The file was converted to PDF as the file size was 9MB+ Look out also for a mail note from Roger Sheridan locating a picture of a Europa beautifully trimmed out. Regards Gerry Bldr No. 384 Gerry Holland Intranet Solutions Inc. Website: http://www.intranetsol.com gerry.holland@intranetsol.com gnh@ddsc.demon.co.uk Mobile +44 (0) 7808 402404 Office +44 (0) 1761 435706 Fax +44 (0) 1761 432472 From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Mon Apr 26 00:45:37 1999 Subject: Re: VPxs Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 00:45:37 From: Graham Singleton >--- Received from ETC.ETCICH 6438 5588X4907 99-04-24 10:12 > >Hi >Does anybody have any advice and experience on choice of VP prop >for a 914 engined XS. >I am getting to the stage of what to choose, fixed or VP. >One concern I have is how heavy the VP unit is and any effect on >W+B. >Anyone any ideas?? Some. Our Arplast PV50 has been excellent. The choice is expanding. MT have the best reputation.Whirlwind looks very good and the lightest but not much track record yet and the NZ Airmaster also looks promising. Hoffman good but maybe a bit too heavy. Graham From Roger.Mills@btinternet.com Mon Apr 26 11:01:36 1999 Subject: Re: new Rotax service bulletin Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 11:01:36 From: Roger Mills Having had my stator changed I can confirm that Graham is right - it is just possible to do an in - situ replacement but access is very difficult and the preferred option has to be to take the engine out. By taking the engine out you make it so much easier to check for corrosion and make sure everything goes back correctly. Roger Mills -----Original Message----- From: Graham Singleton Date: 25 April 1999 16:34 Subject: Re: new Rotax service bulletin >>I have just downloaded the new service bulletin from March 99 (SB-912 >>026/E) from the Rotax user homepage. It's about the replacement of the >>stator assembly. > >. It shouild be possible to do the exchange with the >>engine installed.....at least that's what I hope. >>Anyone planning to do this exchange in the near future and any "insider >>tips" how to do it the "easy way"?? >>Klaus > >My understanding is that Rotax insist that an approved person does the >exchange, in UK at least. It is possible to do it in situ but is not easy. >Several hours work. If you are unlucky and there is any corrosion in there, >(there was with ours, possibly due to coolant over splash) it will be >impossible in situ. Seeing what is involved I would be happier doing the >job with the engine out, then you know that it goes back correctly. > >Graham > From milesm@avnet.co.uk Mon Apr 26 11:25:06 1999 Subject: Re: Corrosion Proofing Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 11:25:06 From: Miles McCallum >Miles/All > >I'm just starting out but would like to get things right from the outset. > >Do you use the Alodine treatment and then coat it with the Zinc >Chromate Yes -on virtually all ali bits, except where ther are bonded into the structure, and then they are alodyned to improve adhesion. > >Is there a definitive list of what parts require what treatment? No - but it's easy to work out. > >Can Zinc Oxide spray be used instead of the nasty sounding Zinc Chromate? Possibly, but I don't think that it's as effective in the long run. > >Aircraft Spruce list "Improved Metal Prep No.79" as the precleaning agent to >use with Alodine No.1201, any reason you didn't use this? Not familiar with this - I use the A/C coverings acid wash/prep just prior to alodyning -otherwise any grease/ oil (especially fingerprints) prevents the alodyne from doing its stuff... > >What did you use on the inside of the pushrods etc? On pushrods, I injected a small amount of ACF-50 ( a very effective -and rather expensive- WDC (water displacing compound) before closing them up. > Miles From rogersheridan@btinternet.com Mon Apr 26 13:47:30 1999 Subject: Sun & Fun goodies Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:47:30 From: Roger Sheridan Picked up a Europa interior trim kit from Duncan Interiors (941 647 1535) based at Lakeland, Florida which looks just like the one pictured at ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/trimkit.jpg. except that my airframe isn't finished yet! (Picture is of a DIY installation) It is a top quality product & Mike has templates for all variations of the cockpit module (eg Mk1 tunnel with extended baggage & XS fuel filler). There is an installation video & I can send my fabric sample card to anybody interested. The other present to myself was a Fastech Citation HVLP spray & respirator system (A/C Spruce '99 page 469), manufacturer Don Hipskind can supply this as a 240 V unit at no extra cost. Finally I spotted a new adjustable 1/4 turn fastener made by Skybolt - www.skybolt.com - which would appear ideal for cowl & D panel attachment - part # SK215 & SK245 Happy spending! Roger. From johnwigney@worldnet.att.net Mon Apr 26 10:15:34 1999 Subject: Re: VPxs Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 10:15:34 From: John Wigney Graham, Understand that you are v. happy with your Arplast PV50. I had written off to the Arplast address in Canada who I understood serviced the US some time ago and did not get a reply, so I was not very impressed with their service. Dave Leonard has now posted the link to a Pulsar owner here is selling Arplast props for Pulsar builders so I may contact him at http://www.graceba.net/~billings/. Question. I note that the power to the prop is supplied through the hollow drive shaft. Is this compatible with the vacuum pump I already have and will mount at the rear of the 912 gearbox ? Question to Europaphiles. Does anybody out there have a reliable contact address for Arplast in the US ? Cheers, John, XS A099 Graham Singleton wrote: > > >--- Received from ETC.ETCICH 6438 5588X4907 99-04-24 10:12 > > > >Hi > >Does anybody have any advice and experience on choice of VP prop > >for a 914 engined XS. > >I am getting to the stage of what to choose, fixed or VP. > >One concern I have is how heavy the VP unit is and any effect on > >W+B. > >Anyone any ideas?? > > Some. Our Arplast PV50 has been excellent. The choice is expanding. MT > have the best reputation.Whirlwind looks very good and the lightest but not > much track record yet and the NZ Airmaster also looks promising. Hoffman > good but maybe a bit too heavy. > > Graham > From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Mon Apr 26 13:07:59 1999 Subject: Re: Battery contactor temperature Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:07:59 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III >During a tech counselor inspection, we discovered that my battery contactor >felt pretty warm when its master switch was on (engine not running - don't >have one yet). I later measured it at 135 F, regardless of load on the >battery. After moving the battery to the other contactor, it also measured >135 F after being on for about 10 minutes. (I have dual batteries, >contactors, and master switches.) These contactors are Stancor 70-914, with >nominal coil resistance of 16 ohms at 12 volts, rated at 80 amps continuous. >Voltage measurements across the contactor coil, master switch, and wiring >indicate there's about 0.8 amps flowing, which is about what I think it >should be. > >So my questions are: 1) Has anybody else measured contactor temperature? >and, 2) Should I be worried about this? A battery contactor is a continuous duty rated device and as you have observed, dwill draw about .8 amps at 14 v which translates to something on the order of 10 watts. It is NORMAL for all devices of this class to run warm. Starter contactors will draw about 4 amps or 50 WATTS which would make them toast in a vew minutes. This is why they are INTERMITTANT rated devices. Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Mon Apr 26 13:23:48 1999 Subject: Re: Shielded Wire Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:23:48 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III > ><< How do I go about grounding the braid on "shielded wire"? >> > > Try this old trick a Boeing tech showed me about 35 years ago while I was hammering on a B-52 . . . Strip away the outer jacket to expose the braid underneath. Bunch the braid up slightly and use an awl to open a pathway in the side of the braid close to the end of the outer jacket. Bend the wire/braid over 180 degrees and pull the center conductor out of the open hole. Tug the braid out straight to close the hole. Now you have two leads which may be terminated as needed. Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Mon Apr 26 14:01:25 1999 Subject: Re: Transponder antenna gnd plane Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 14:01:25 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III >I recall a discussion on the size of the x-ponder ground plane. Believe >was around 5.20 inches dia. (some number times the antenna length). >Does anyone recall this number? 2 times the seated height of the antenna which is 2.6" > Location away from the pilot/co-pilot is also >recommended but over ten feet requires a different cable. Yes?? I was >thinking about locating it aft of the pilot in the baggage area. Is that >distance safe? A totally bogus recommendation. A few years back, someone observed that their transponder was rated for 200 watts output . . . 1/3rd that of the family microwave. Our hero was immediately concerned for preservation of the family jewels and proceeded to line the bottom of his composite seat pan with aluminum foil. What he failed to understand was that his RF coffee warmer and popcorn popper was rated in continuous watts while the transponder was in peak watts. The average power output from a transponder is less than 1 watt . . . BTW, the eyes are about 100 times more sensitive to the effects of microwave heating than are any deep organs . . . you'll go blind you quit making babies. Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From tonyk@kaon.co.nz Tue Apr 27 09:54:35 1999 Subject: Re: Re: VP Props Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 09:54:35 From: Tony Krzyzewski Have a look at the February update at www.propellor.com Tony -----Original Message----- From: VP4SkyDoc@aol.com Date: Monday, 26 April 1999 15:51 Subject: Re: VP Props >Rob Waters sent me the following link. There you will find the builder of a >very nice Pulsar using a 912. He does a nice write up on his opinions of the >Arplast Eletrical VP that he uses with a lot of pictures and other >information. > >Dave Leonard > >>Does anybody have any advice and experience on choice of VP prop >>for a 914 engined XS. > From tonyk@kaon.co.nz Tue Apr 27 10:22:21 1999 Subject: Re: Fuel System Information Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 10:22:21 From: Tony Krzyzewski Thanks for the very professionally written fuel system PDF. My 914 is FINALLY on its way from Austria. The NZ Rotax agent has just come back from the factory where they confirmed that they were able to make a "small" mod to the 914 for me. It appears that the bushing for the mechanical fuel pump used on the 912 is present on the 914 which means that the mechanical pump can be fitted to the 914. The factory states that while the mechanical pump will not deliver enough fuel for turbo takeoff it will deliver enough to maintain flight in the event of failure of the two electrical pumps. I'll need a small reserve battery to keep the engine computer and wastegate servo alive but other than that I can achieve my goal of keeping the 914 running in the event of total electrical failure. (You get a bit paranoid about keeping the cooling fan running when 35% of the country you fly over is subtropical bush covered mountain that can eat planes!). Tony From pilot89m@mindspring.com Mon Apr 26 20:19:47 1999 Subject: Singleton Tailwheel mod Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:19:47 From: Marl Halbrook Graham, A buddy of mine (Dan Boyd ) wanted me to contact you and get any info you have on the mod you did to the tailwheel (especially the rudder cables). He said he spoke to you ar Sun & Fun about this. Thanks Marl Sonex #0117 From 102034.2747@compuserve.com Mon Apr 26 21:00:32 1999 Subject: Landing Gear Mod? Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:00:32 From: Martin J.Tuck <102034.2747@compuserve.com> Hi folks, Is the last landing gear mod official. Its the one which puts in a brace to prevent inadvertant collapses due to wear between the retract lever and retract arm. A sketch of the mod appeared in the last Tech News from Europa but are parts available? If so how much and is it easy to do once the gear is in situ? I got my monowheel check ride down in Lakeland with Lee after Sun and Fun and I have to say it took some getting used to on take-off and landing - particularly as there was quite a strong crosswind from the left. I know I'll be limiting myself to a 5 kt cross wind (like they do with the taildraggers I fly locally) until I'm happier I can keep straight. The first few landings were a bit bouncy but after giving myself a bit more time on the approach to get myself sorted speed/height wise felt comfortable with the last few landings - one of which got me back my silly Europa grin! (The earlier landings were more like a grimmace!). I got a couple of hours in and felt happy with it after the first hour. At this rate I should see first flight around late May/June. Happy Europa-ing. Oh and if you didn't know there's a new video out (Europa 1999) which is a compilation of the first and second video with some new shots of the XS, tri-gear and motor glider thrown in for good measure. ( I have to have my appetite whetted again occasionally). Regards Martin Tuck N152MT Wichita, Kansas From Fillinger@aol.com Tue Apr 27 00:03:35 1999 Subject: Re: Trim tabs and beyond Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:03:35 From: Fillinger@aol.com >I have a question which popped up as I fitted the port tailplane to its >respective stabilator. How much the clearance between the >aforementioned parts will be reduced once the tab is filled? Assuming >it will change enough to require some additional sanding, is it OK to >wait until the tab is filled and sanded before readjusting the clearance >or should I take some extra off now? Steve -- Having recently completed filling of the tailplane et. al., that's easy. Do the final sanding of the edges later. Filler will not add anything to the edge of fiberglass flanges, nor do you want any there. However, it is a nuisance to work with filler at the edges, as they can wind up raggedy and time-consuming to fix. Hence, it's nice to be able to sand off more flange to produce a nice edge. So, when they say on any flange to sand to a gap of x mm, don't do quite that much until the filler step. Regards, Fred Fillinger, A063 From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Tue Apr 27 13:05:34 1999 Subject: Re: Mass Balance Wieghts Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:05:34 From: Tony Renshaw John, Like Paul I am not far off my mass balance weights installation. I however have a Europa Classic. Is there a benefit in waiting until after I have built my wings? I suppose it may not matter, "the apple before the cart" so to speak. I figure either way, you either build an aileron complete and make a wing to accomodate, or visa versa. Any thoughts? Reg Tony Renshaw >Paul, > >I don't know if you have your wings yet but if you do not have them, I >advise that you put the ailerons to one side and wait until you have >installed the wing boxes, then fit the weights accordingly using dummy >templates initially. My experience has been that the instructions as per >the manual would have resulted in weights which might have fitted at >zero deflection but which would give substantial interference at the >required down deflection. I don't know why that is, I seem to remember a >suggestion that the instructions are a hangover from the Classic Europa. >Also, by leaving the job until the boxes are on, you can ensure a >precise fit in the plan view. >Happy building. > >Cheers, John, A099 > > >Paul McAllister wrote: >> >> Hi all, I am about to do my mass balance weights for my XS ailerons. Does >> anyone have any special tips or cautions to share ? Thanks >> >> Paul McAllister 363 >> Builders log http://pma.obtero.net >> > > Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From renshaw@ozemail.com.au Tue Apr 27 14:21:36 1999 Subject: Europa Heaven Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:21:36 From: Tony Renshaw You need to read this if you like a laugh. Otherwise, stiff! Until my next more serious contribution. Reg Tony Renshaw > > > > Let's say a guy named Roger is attracted to a woman named Elaine. He > asks > > her out to a movie; she accepts; they have a pretty good time. A few > nights > > later he asks her out to dinner, and again they enjoy themselves. They > > continue to see each other regularly, and after a while neither one of > them > > is seeing anybody else. And then, one evening when they're driving home, > a > > thought occurs to Elaine, and, without really thinking, she says it > aloud: > > "Do you realise that, as of tonight, we've been seeing each other for > > exactly six months?" > > > > And then there is silence in the car. > > > > To Elaine, it seems like a very loud silence. She thinks to herself: > Geez, > > I > > wonder if it bothers him that I said that. Maybe he's been feeling > confined > > by our relationship; maybe he thinks I'm trying to push him into some > kind > > of obligation that he doesn't want, or isn't sure of. > > > > And Roger is thinking: Gosh. Six months. > > > > And Elaine is thinking: But, hey, I'm not so sure I want this kind of > > relationship, either. Sometimes I wish I had a little more space, so I'd > > have time to think about whether I really want us to keep going the way > we > > are, moving steadily toward... I mean, where are we going? Are we just > > going o keep seeing each other at this level of intimacy? Are we heading > > toward > > marriage? Toward children? Toward a lifetime together? Am I ready for > that > > level of commitment? Do I really even know this person? > > > > And Roger is thinking: ...so that means it was... let's see... February > > when we started going out, which was right after I had the car at the > > dealer's, > > which means... lemme check the odometer... Whoa! I am way overdue for an > > oil hange here. > > > > And Elaine is thinking: He's upset. I can see it on his face. Maybe I'm > > reading this completely wrong. Maybe he wants more from our > relationship, > > more intimacy, more commitment; maybe he has sensed-even before I sensed > > it--that I was feeling some reservations. Yes, I bet that's it. That's > why > > he's so reluctant to say anything about his own feelings. He's afraid of > > being rejected. > > > > And Roger is thinking: And I'm gonna have them look at the transmission > > again. I don't care what those morons say, it's still not shifting > right. > > And they better not try to blame it on the cold weather this time. What > > cold weather? It's 87degrees out, and this thing is shifting like a > garbage > > truck, and I paid those incompetent thieves $600. > > > > And Elaine is thinking: He's angry. And I don't blame him. I'd be angry, > > too. I feel so guilty, putting him through this, but I can't help the > way > I > > feel. I'm just not sure. > > > > And Roger is thinking: They'll probably say it's only a 90-day > warranty... > > scumbags. > > > > And Elaine is thinking: Maybe I'm just too idealistic, waiting for a > knight > > to come riding up on his white horse, when I'm sitting right next to a > > perfectly good person, a person I enjoy being with, a person I truly do > > care about, a person who seems to truly care about me. A person who is > in > pain > > because of my self-centred, schoolgirl romantic fantasy. > > > > And Roger is thinking: Warranty? They want a warranty? I'll give them a > > warranty. I'll take their warranty and stick it right up their... > > > > "Roger," Elaine says aloud. > > > > "What?" says Roger, startled. > > > > "Please don't torture yourself like this," she says, her eyes beginning > to > > brim with tears. "Maybe I should never have... Oh God, I feel so..." > > > > (She breaks down, sobbing.) > > > > "What?" says Roger. > > > > "I'm such a fool," Elaine sobs. "I mean, I know there's no knight. I > really > > know that. It's silly. There's no knight, and there's no horse." > > > > "There's no horse?" says Roger. > > > > "You think I'm a fool, don't you?" Elaine says. > > > > "No!" says Roger, glad to finally know the correct answer. > > > > "It's just that... it's that I... I need some time," Elaine says. > (There > > is a 15-second pause while Roger, thinking as fast as he can, tries to > come up > > with a safe response. Finally he comes up with one that he thinks might > > work.) "Yes," he says. > > > > (Elaine, deeply moved, touches his hand.) "Oh, Roger, do you really feel > > that way?" she says. > > > > "What way?" says Roger. > > > > "That way about time," says Elaine. > > > > "Oh," says Roger. "Yes." > > > > (Elaine turns to face him and gazes deeply into his eyes, causing him to > > become very nervous about what she might say next, especially if it > > involves a horse. At last she speaks.) > > > > "Thank you, Roger," she says." > > > > "Thank you," says Roger. > > > > Then he takes her home, and she lies on her bed, a conflicted, tortured > > soul, and weeps until dawn, whereas when Roger gets back to his place, > he > > opens a bag of Doritos, turns on the TV, and immediately becomes deeply > > involved in a rerun of a tennis match between two Czechoslovakians he > never > > heard of. A tiny voice in the far recesses of his mind tells him that > > something major was going on back there in the car, but he is pretty > sure > > there is no way he would ever understand what, and so he figures it's > > better if he doesn't think about it. > > > > The next day Elaine will call her closest friend, or perhaps two of > them, > > and they will talk about this situation for six straight hours. In > > painstaking detail, they will analyse everything she said and everything > he > > said, going over it time and time again, exploring every word, > expression, > > and gesture for nuances of meaning, considering every possible > > ramification. They will > > continue to discuss this subject, off and on, for weeks, maybe months, > > never reaching any definite conclusions, but never getting bored with > it, > > either. > > > > Meanwhile, Roger, while playing racquetball one day with a mutual friend > of > > his and Elaine's, will pause just before serving, frown, and say: "Norm, > > did Elaine ever own a horse?" > > > > And that's the difference between men and women. > > ------------------------------------- > > Jenny Bigelow > > DCAD > > Deakin University > > Phone 0352 278 039 > > Fax 0352 278 177 ----------------- End Forwarded Message ----------------- Reg Tony Renshaw Builder No.236 From grasingleton@avnet.co.uk Tue Apr 27 00:08:44 1999 Subject: Re: VPxs Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:08:44 From: Graham Singleton >Understand that you are v. happy with your Arplast PV50. I >Question. >I note that the power to the prop is supplied through the hollow drive >shaft. Is this compatible with the vacuum pump I already have and will >mount at the rear of the 912 gearbox ? Yes, but you need to specify a longer connection finger. I believe Jerry Davies is servicing US sales now. Graham From PRAnderson@dcanderson.freeserve.co.uk Tue Apr 27 13:07:21 1999 Subject: Classic engine cowls and spinner Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:07:21 From: Roger Anderson By the time that I came to fit my engine classic engine mountings were no longer available, so I had to fit a ring mount and XS cowls. As a result I have a set of classic cowls surplus to requirement which may be of use to someone. I am fitting an Arplast and so have a spinner with bulkheads to spare. They would have to be collected from Oxton, which is about ten miles north east of Nottingham. Home no. is 0115-9653118 if anyone is interested. Roger Anderson. Builder 155. interested. 155. From fkyle@bigwave.ca Tue Apr 27 15:44:13 1999 Subject: GROUNDING BRAID Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:44:13 From: Fergus Kyle Cheers: Bob Nuckolls excellent advice is on the money. An illustrated item showing the technique is on page 26 of the American Radio Relay Leagues "hints and Kinks" book for 1959. Other similar terminations are shown in the ARRL annual HANDBOOK for Radio Amateurs. Yout friendly radioamateur neighbour may be a good source for 'rolling your own'. Happy Landings Ferg #A064 From KDIETRIC@AT.oracle.com Wed Apr 28 07:41:38 1999 Subject: Rotax Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:41:38 From: Klaus Dietrich Hi Roger, here is the address of the Rotax owners association where you can find all the service bulletins and technical informations; it's available to all and no subscription required. http://www.rotax-owner.com Happy flying, Klaus (132) From paulliz@cix.co.uk Wed Apr 28 07:41:38 1999 Subject: Re: Mass Balance Weights Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:41:38 From: Paul and Liz Atkinson In article <3.0.5.32.19990427130534.007c5ea0@ozemail.com.au>, renshaw@ozemail.com.au (Tony Renshaw) wrote: > John, > Like Paul I am not far off my mass balance weights installation. I however > have a Europa Classic. Is there a benefit in waiting until after I have > built my wings? I suppose it may not matter, "the apple before the cart" so > to speak. I figure either way, you either build an aileron complete and > make a wing to accomodate, or visa versa. Any thoughts? > > Reg > Tony Renshaw Tony I would leave your weights until you have a wing to fit to. It may save you having to refit the weights later. I found that I needed to do a fair amount of trail and error fitting before I could get the required range of aileron operation. I wouldn't consider trying to change the wing to accommodate your completed ailerons, you might end up with some unwanted lumps just where you don't want them!! By the way, Do they really use apples to pull carts, down under? :-) Paul Atkinson From RonSwinden@aol.com Wed Apr 28 16:14:31 1999 Subject: Re: VPxs Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:14:31 From: RonSwinden@aol.com I too am very happy with the Arplas VP prop but thought you might be interested to hear of a small technical quirk which bothered Mike (Dolphin) and I for a while. He (warp drive fixed pitch)regularly got mag drops which were less than mine say 100 revs ito my 200 then recently I set my prop to around 17 deg instead of the fine pitch 14.5 deg that I normally do my run up at guess what same drop every day we learn a little bit? Ron No 33 From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Wed Apr 28 15:25:45 1999 Subject: Re: source of large in-line fuses Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:25:45 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III >I was looking for large in-line fuses and discovered a surprising source: >mobile audio suppliers. Seems that the proliferation of multi-hundred watt >amplifiers popular with cars that go boom-booming around town has created a >market for large in-line fuses. Fuses in the range of 10A-100A and holders >that accommodate 8awg and 4awg wire are common for this type of >installation. > >So if you want to use an in-line fuse instead of a fusable link somewhere, >this may be a useful place to look. I have been watching some of these products and even ordered a few items to looke them over. To date, I have no positive recommendations for products I've seen. The lower current fuses are large, tubular glass cartridges that require holders with large area, low pressure contacts. I'm skeptical of the "gold" finish on many of these parts as to it's value in maintaining low contact resistance. Wire attachement on many of the high-power mobil audio accesories is by driving a screw laterally into a bundle of stranded wire . . . okay for solid house wire but not Mil-W-22759 bizillioin strand aircraft wire. You can buy an automotive encarnation of the ANL series current limiters which mount on threaded studs and attach wires using conventionally applied ring terminals. I'l consider these for use in airplanes. If anyone has some experience or engineering data in support of specific products, I'd be pleased to hear about it. For the moment, the majority of what I've seen in catalogs and hanging on the racks in stores wasn't very exciting. Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From stevenwpitt@mcmail.com Wed Apr 28 23:49:30 1999 Subject: Kemble - 1.5.99 Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:49:30 From: Steven & Mary Pitt I am planning to visit the field today and wonder whether it is possible to see any Europas. I am building no 403 and am looking at as many examples as possible. If any owners will be around would they be kind enough to make contact. -Steve Pitt From Tennant@tonline.de Wed Apr 28 23:49:30 1999 Subject: graham Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:49:30 From: Tennant@tonline.de To Graham Singelton. Could you please send me your contact address as Rudiger Klink (Bremen) would like to get some parts from you and we dont have your address etc. Best regards Barry From tonyk@kaon.co.nz Fri Apr 30 09:00:31 1999 Subject: PFA Rally & Arlington Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 09:00:31 From: Tony Krzyzewski For those who may be interested. Travel permission has been granted, flights confirmed and I'll be attending the PFA rally from the Friday afternoon through Sunday and the NWEAA Arlington Fly In on the 8th & 9th July. See you there! Tony From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Thu Apr 29 22:34:54 1999 Subject: Re:Shielded Wire (Explaination Needed) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 22:34:54 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III I've prepared a picture tutorial on preparation of shielded wire for termination to other electro-goodies in your airplane. Interested individuals are invited to click on . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shdlwire Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Thu Apr 29 22:48:55 1999 Subject: Re: OOPS, incomplete URL (was Shielded Wire Explaination Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 22:48:55 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III Needed) Sorry, Left out the last slash which is important . . . http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/ Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From nuckolls@aeroelectric.com Thu Apr 29 23:02:37 1999 Subject: Shielded Wire? Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 23:02:37 From: Robert L. Nuckolls III >Bob, >So what about the capacitor. Will it help reduce any noise in the >intercom, radio, etc, system if we install one. A friend of mine >recommended that I install a capacitor in the system along with the >shielded wire from the alternator. A builder called me about ten years ago and spent several minutes outlining all the shielding, filtering, prepositioning of harware in the airplane all in the name of eliminating electrical noise. All in all, several dozens of hours, pounds of hardwrae and no small sum of cash. I was a bit astonished and asked what kind of noise proplem he was having. "Oh," sez he, "I don't have a noise problem, the airplane is not yet ready to fly." My advice is generally this: Put shielded wire on magneto p-leads, spark plug wires -and- on any appliances where the manufacturer recommneds it and describes how it is to be hooked up. Then, if a noise problem presents itself, you need to identify the source, propogation mode and victim and plan the best way to handle that particular problem by filtering at source, breaking the propogation mode or filtering at the victim. Given that there are dozens of possible combinations, you can easily spend the time and dollars represented by our hero's precautions and still not assure yourself of a noise free airplane. Begin with good basic installation practice and whip each problem as it presents itself . . . it's generally not hard to do . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurasic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > http://www.aeroelectric.com From gopack@sprintmail.com Fri Apr 30 19:27:19 1999 Subject: Flettner strips Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 19:27:19 From: Steve Genotte Composite Cavaliers, While I walk my pet alligator as my TP-12s and TP-13s cure in situ, I ponder the enigmatic Flettner strip. Any suggestions on fabrication methods or outright substitutes? Steve G.