Will,
You've got the right attitude.
Setting the belcrank on the wing to 90 degrees is only one part of the
rig. Your fuselage QDs may be the culprit as well. You can adjust the
aileron as suggested many ways. Check that your flaps and wingtips are
not drooping. Use your incidence board and check the flaps on both
sides are dead level with the board. If your board is lost, you have
only the lower wing to set level across the flaps with the lower first
six inches of the wing skin.
Big thing to remember is the outer short push rod sets the up limit at
nominally 23.5 to 24.5 (25.5 max). The up limit on one aileron sets the
down limit on the other. If you have full required travel of the
aileron (roughly 42-46 degrees) your problem is normally your QDs are
not set vertical to the ground with the fuselage level and plumb.
Measuring with a Smart digital level is made easier by some
manufacturers by removing the center portion. Now you have a short
smart level. The smart tool is a bit cumbersome to use but essential
for the flap/stab measurements. For the ailerons, I use a simple
protractor made by General (#29) for inside and outside measurements.
It is about $5. (A carpenters bevel gauge works outstanding also.)
Set the protractor/bevel gauge at the desired angle and put it just to
the outboard of either wing hinge (I use the inboard) and take a quick
look and adjust down to about 24.5 degrees or so by just holding the
gauge to the wing and looking at the gap. With the aileron up (outside
postion on the protractor) I set the pushrod to give me 23.5 to 24.5 as
set on my protractor/bevel gauge. I do the same on the other wing. I
check that with the aileron down I get full down plus some before the
wt. hits the closeout. Then set the fuselage and wing QD to vertical.
That should work, but doesn't always as you found out!
Some adjustment of the fuselage QD belcrank is necessary to get the
ailerons to be level with the flaps and outboard wing tip. Use your now
shortened smart tool to get the fuselage QD vertical with the outer skin
as best you can, or put the pins in and set a T square on them to set
the QDs. Yes, I know the T square is too big, so put the long section
in the fuselage and use a piece of 6 inch 3/4 lumber on the QD and align
it with the square. Make sure both sides are the same. Set the wing
lateral push rod to get the wing QD parallel to the pins. Don't get
excited about setting the phenolic pads right now. Look hard at your
bolt head alignment on the QDs. They are probably off a bit. By
adjusting slightly the angle of the QD you can adjust for some
misalignment. Then put in the final pad. (If too far apart, tack some
phenolic in place with a drop of super glue to help get things close to
final.) Repeat on the other wing. Note the ailerons for droop or
reflex (up) with both wings rigged and pinned. The ailerons should be
even (both slightly up or down). Now, degrig, adjust the lateral
pushrod a turn in the appropriate direction on each side, and rerig.
Continue until you have them both even and the throw correct.
To be honest, sometimes the wingtip is a bit off, so if your flaps are
dead on, use them. If the tips are off, I use a smart level and my T
squares to measure if there is twist between wings. That's another fix
we won't get into right now. See my trimming notes if the incidence or
flaps are not exactly the same.
Good luck this weekend. You have all the tools and frankly it sounds
like you have the total throw so you're almost there.
Remember, if you haven't taken it apart and put it together at least
five times (per wing), you're doing it wrong.
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down
Gentlemen thanks for your contributions
I do have more than the full movement required without the wings
rigged leading me to identify the control system as the prime suspect.
I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend (very annoying
how work interferes with building)
a.. I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one which is too
unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short one
b.. Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's instructions
c.. Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg
d.. level everything and check that the fuselage end is all correct
a.. control columns vertical and parallel
b.. centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are vertical
(using my newly acquired short smart tool)
e.. And then if that doesn't solve it start playing around with the
fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit lies.
f.. I think on reflection that I haven't followed the process
carefully enough so ....I am going to do it again...
thanks Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744<tel:%2B57%20310%20295%200744>
On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>> wrote:
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>>
William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged wings and
full down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then you need to
adjust the length of control rods between wingroot and bell crank.
Regards, David
William Daniell
<wdaniell.longport@gmail.com<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>> wrote:
David
Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this is the
root of the
problem. I made two templates and following buds instructions
measured at
the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower surface of the
wing
compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I am
measuring both
up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid point.
Is this correct?
Will
On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce"
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>> wrote:
davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>>
William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got one I
would
strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so that you
can easily
and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me to
wonder whether
you are measuring your up and down angles off the same surface
(i.e. Are
you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper surface, then
measuring
the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than the up
angle of
the upper surface and the down angle of the lower surface)
Regards, David
Joyce, G-XSDJ
William Daniell
<wdaniell.longport@gmail.com<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>> wrote:
I am rigging everything prior to closing
I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the
underside mindful
or buds strictures to measure at the hinge
I have followed the procedure on the book (i think).
*1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted such
that when the
bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has moved
23.5=C2=BA up.*
*2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of the
lateral push-rod
so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90=C2=BA to a
line between both
spar bushes.*
*3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that both
control
columns are parallel.*
*4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the
CS08=99s and the CS15
bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the control
columns are
vertical.*
*When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should be
23.5=C2=BA up and 20=C2=BA
down with full lateral **control column movement and both
ailerons should
be in their neutral positions together when the*
*control columns are vertical.*
My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both stops but
they don't
go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would guess
that they are
about 15-17 down
I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled around but
Im stumped.
What I am I doing wrong?
Might it be that the control columns should not be parallell
in this case
due to variation in the build....
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744<tel:%2B57%20310%20295%200744>
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